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2021-07-01

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Brokerages' top stocks for July have been released! Which stocks gained the most attention?

2021-06-24

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Opening: The Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, with New Oriental rising over 5%.

2021-05-19

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2021-05-16

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Metersbonwe Chairman Zhou Chengjian: I once forgot I was a "tailor"

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11:25","market":"sh","language":"zh","title":"Brokerages' top stocks for July have been released! 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Which stocks gained the most attention?\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<p class=\"head\">\n<strong class=\"h-name small\">第一财经</strong><span class=\"h-time small\">2021-07-01 11:25</span>\n</p>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p><div>Analysts point out that the index will continue to fluctuate in July. As the interim report rally unfolds, performance is king, and high-growth growth is the least resistance direction. For thematic opportunities, focus on peak season clues. The A-share market fluctuated narrowly in June, with technology stocks remaining hot throughout the month. How to find opportunities in July? As of June 30, 14 securities firms had released their monthly investment portfolios for July, covering multiple sectors including non-bank financial institutions, electrical engineering, light industry, machinery, chemicals, and home appliances. Which stocks gained the most attention? According to incomplete statistics, among the \"top stocks\" lists of various securities firms, Eastmoney, known as the \"Mao of securities firms,\" remains the one with the most institutional recommendations, with a total of...</p><p><a href=\"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html\">Web page link</a></div></p>\n<div class=\"bt-text\">\n\n\n<p> source：<a href=\"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html\">第一财经</a></p>\n\n\n</div>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/4a10424fe3b1f29e8d28fdc0dc474e86","relate_stocks":{"399001":"深证成指","399006":"创业板指","000001.SH":"上证指数"},"source_url":"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html","is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1144302321","content_text":"机构指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n\n6月A股市场呈现窄幅震荡走势，科技股热点贯穿全月，7月如何寻找机会？截至6月30日，有14家券商公布了7月月度投资组合，涉及非银、电气、轻工、机械、化工、家电等多个领域。\n\n哪些个股收获点名最多？\n据不完全统计，在各家券商的“金股”名单中，获机构推荐次数最多的依旧是“券商茅”东方财富，共获得5家券商的推荐，该股6月月内累计涨3.11%，最新收盘价为32.79元。\n此外，药明康德获得国泰君安、兴业证券、浙商证券3家券商的推荐。该股6月内涨幅明显，达12.62%，最新收盘价为156.59元。\n从涨跌幅来看，获两家及以上券商推荐的个股中，港股爱帝宫涨幅最大，该股6月内大涨65.75%，最新收盘价为1.21港元；跌幅最大的是泸州老窖，6月内跌超14%，报235.94元。\n\n后市怎么走？\n展望后市，券商普遍表示，7月股市将持续震荡，而中报行情将成为市场亮点。\n华金证券指出，7月份扰动增加，震荡恐将加剧，但在海内外流动性预期暂时好转背景下，结构性行情有望延续。\n浙商证券也指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n银河证券认为，7月是中报及中报预告披露期，业绩高增长主导结构性机会。经济金融环境暂维持相对利好权益资产，但是A股市场已反弹至高位，增量资金进场缓慢，后续需谨慎追涨，适当降低预期。\n西南证券也认为，经过前期的快速上涨，同时随着中报陆陆续续公布，中报行情有望迎来业绩兑现期，需要适当转向防御，以巩固前期的上涨成果。\n哪些行业最受青睐？\n配置方向上，券商依旧看好顺周期板块未来行情，计算机、医药、新能源等成长板块也受到券商关注，此外，关注中报业绩高增长主线。\n开源证券研报指出，周期股的重定价时刻正在来临，当投资者认识到供给约束的持续性与通胀并非短期，那么在业绩持续验证下，周期股的长期盈利能力将在全市场内显得极具性价比。同时，环境的变化也正在扭转高杠杆经营公司长期的不利地位。开始重新把前期回调较多，受到市场约束较多的成长型周期股纳入到推荐中。\n兴业证券研报称，成长仍是主旋律但是要立足性价比，中报行情可布局绩优股。成长板块围绕4条主线，找长期性价比合适的机会：\n\n 1、AIoT（计算机、通信、电子）；\n\n\n 2、医药（医疗器械、医疗服务）；\n\n\n 3、新能源链条（新能源材料、锂电设备、汽车、智能驾驶）；\n\n\n 4、高端制造设备（半导体设备、军工）。\n\n同时，兴业证券强调，中报行情不容忽视，如机械、军工、化工、交运等行业的绩优股。\n银河证券也认为，景气度向上、中报业绩高增长是主线：关注需求强劲的上游周期品；医疗美容、化妆品、智能家电等消费升级主题；产业数字化、碳中和等国家战略方向。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"399001":0.9,"399006":0.9,"000001.SH":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":4644,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":128111270,"gmtCreate":1624505564490,"gmtModify":1703838672344,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"idStr":"3583575014073252","authorIdStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"title":"","htmlText":"nnnnn","listText":"nnnnn","text":"nnnnn","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":0,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/128111270","repostId":"1171242956","repostType":4,"repost":{"id":"1171242956","kind":"news","weMediaInfo":{"introduction":"为用户提供金融资讯、行情、数据，旨在帮助投资者理解世界，做投资决策。","home_visible":1,"media_name":"老虎资讯综合","id":"102","head_image":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/8274c5b9d4c2852bfb1c4d6ce16c68ba"},"pubTimestamp":1624497777,"share":"https://ttm.financial/m/news/1171242956?lang=en_US&edition=fundamental","pubTime":"2021-06-24 09:22","market":"sh","language":"zh","title":"Opening: The Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, with New Oriental rising over 5%.","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1171242956","media":"老虎资讯综合","summary":"6月24日讯，港股三大指数高开，恒指涨0.17%报28865点，国指涨0.14%报10688点，恒生科技指数涨0.32%报8045点。盘面上，光伏股强势，福莱特玻璃高开5%，信义玻璃、信义光能等均上涨","content":"<p>June 24 - Hong Kong's three major stock indices opened higher, with the Hang Seng Index rising 0.17% to 28,865 points, the Hang Seng Index rising 0.14% to 10,688 points, and the Hang Seng Tech Index rising 0.32% to 8,045 points.<img src=\"https://static.tigerbbs.com/bf14c488539ead32bc20f4d3e1881261\" tg-width=\"840\" tg-height=\"470\">Photovoltaic stocks performed strongly on the market.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/06865\">Flat Glass</a>Opening 5% higher,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00868\">Xinyi Glass</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00968\">Xinyi Light Energy</a>All rose; The education and pharmaceutical sectors led the gains, with New Oriental rising over 5%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/TSLA\">Tesla</a>Concept stocks, beer stocks, property management stocks, and automobile stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/601598\">Sinotrans</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01308\">SITC International</a>All opened higher; Major technology stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BABA\">Alibaba</a>It rose more than 1%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BIDU\">Baidu</a>Meituan<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00700\">Tencent</a>A slight increase; Sporting goods stocks were mixed, with Anta open low exceeding 1% and hitting a record high yesterday; Airline stocks and gambling stocks fell significantly.</p><p><a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01478\">Q Ti Technology</a>The stock rose nearly 3% after spinning off Kunshanqiu Titanium Microelectronics and submitting a listing application to the Shenzhen Stock Exchange's ChiNext board.</p>","collect":0,"html":"<!DOCTYPE html>\n<html>\n<head>\n<meta http-equiv=\"Content-Type\" content=\"text/html; charset=utf-8\" />\n<meta name=\"viewport\" content=\"width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0,user-scalable=no\"/>\n<meta name=\"format-detection\" content=\"telephone=no,email=no,address=no\" />\n<title>Opening: The Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, with New Oriental rising over 5%.</title>\n<style type=\"text/css\">\na,abbr,acronym,address,applet,article,aside,audio,b,big,blockquote,body,canvas,caption,center,cite,code,dd,del,details,dfn,div,dl,dt,\nem,embed,fieldset,figcaption,figure,footer,form,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,header,hgroup,html,i,iframe,img,ins,kbd,label,legend,li,mark,menu,nav,\nobject,ol,output,p,pre,q,ruby,s,samp,section,small,span,strike,strong,sub,summary,sup,table,tbody,td,tfoot,th,thead,time,tr,tt,u,ul,var,video{ font:inherit;margin:0;padding:0;vertical-align:baseline;border:0 }\nbody{ font-size:16px; line-height:1.5; color:#999; background:transparent; }\n.wrapper{ overflow:hidden;word-break:break-all;padding:10px; }\nh1,h2{ font-weight:normal; 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overflow: hidden}\n.head .h-thumb { width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%; float: left;}\n.head .h-content { margin: 0; padding: 0 0 0 9px; float: left;}\n.head .h-name {font-size: 13px; color: #eee; margin: 0;}\n.head .h-time {font-size: 12.5px; color: #7E829C; margin: 0;}\n.small {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.9); -webkit-transform: scale(0.9); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.smaller {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.8); -webkit-transform: scale(0.8); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.bt-text {font-size: 12px;margin: 1.5em 0 0 0}\n.bt-text p {margin: 0}\n</style>\n</head>\n<body>\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<header>\n<h2 class=\"title\">\nOpening: The Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, with New Oriental rising over 5%.\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<a class=\"head\" href=\"https://laohu8.com/wemedia/102\">\n\n<div class=\"h-thumb\" style=\"background-image:url(https://static.tigerbbs.com/8274c5b9d4c2852bfb1c4d6ce16c68ba);background-size:cover;\"></div>\n\n<div class=\"h-content\">\n<p class=\"h-name\">老虎资讯综合 </p>\n<p class=\"h-time smaller\">2021-06-24 09:22</p>\n</div>\n</a>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p>June 24 - Hong Kong's three major stock indices opened higher, with the Hang Seng Index rising 0.17% to 28,865 points, the Hang Seng Index rising 0.14% to 10,688 points, and the Hang Seng Tech Index rising 0.32% to 8,045 points.<img src=\"https://static.tigerbbs.com/bf14c488539ead32bc20f4d3e1881261\" tg-width=\"840\" tg-height=\"470\">Photovoltaic stocks performed strongly on the market.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/06865\">Flat Glass</a>Opening 5% higher,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00868\">Xinyi Glass</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00968\">Xinyi Light Energy</a>All rose; The education and pharmaceutical sectors led the gains, with New Oriental rising over 5%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/TSLA\">Tesla</a>Concept stocks, beer stocks, property management stocks, and automobile stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/601598\">Sinotrans</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01308\">SITC International</a>All opened higher; Major technology stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BABA\">Alibaba</a>It rose more than 1%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BIDU\">Baidu</a>Meituan<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00700\">Tencent</a>A slight increase; Sporting goods stocks were mixed, with Anta open low exceeding 1% and hitting a record high yesterday; Airline stocks and gambling stocks fell significantly.</p><p><a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01478\">Q Ti Technology</a>The stock rose nearly 3% after spinning off Kunshanqiu Titanium Microelectronics and submitting a listing application to the Shenzhen Stock Exchange's ChiNext board.</p>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/5b3b5e72649367d0aafd9bcbbca9bcd1","relate_stocks":{"159938":"医药","513600":"恒生指数ETF南方","HSI":"恒生指数","02833":"恒指ETF","09939":"开拓药业-B"},"is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1171242956","content_text":"6月24日讯，港股三大指数高开，恒指涨0.17%报28865点，国指涨0.14%报10688点，恒生科技指数涨0.32%报8045点。盘面上，光伏股强势，福莱特玻璃高开5%，信义玻璃、信义光能等均上涨；教育、医药板块涨幅居前，新东方涨超5%，特斯拉概念股、啤酒股、物管股、汽车股普遍上扬，中国外运、海丰国际等皆高开；大型科技股普涨，阿里巴巴涨超1%，百度、美团、腾讯小幅上涨；体育用品股涨跌不一，安踏低开逾1%，昨日曾创历史新高；航空股、濠赌股走低明显。\n丘钛科技涨近3%，分拆昆山丘钛微电子向深交所创业板提交上市申请。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"159938":0.9,"513600":0.9,"MCHmain":0.9,"09939":0.9,"HSImain":0.9,"MHImain":0.9,"02833":0.9,"HHImain":0.9,"HSI":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":4887,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":194585404,"gmtCreate":1621386979608,"gmtModify":1704356765374,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"idStr":"3583575014073252","authorIdStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"title":"","htmlText":"66666","listText":"66666","text":"66666","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":2,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/194585404","repostId":"1101398960","repostType":4,"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":5596,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":192905670,"gmtCreate":1621134464990,"gmtModify":1704353196901,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"idStr":"3583575014073252","authorIdStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"title":"","htmlText":"666666","listText":"666666","text":"666666","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":0,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/192905670","repostId":"1144988792","repostType":4,"repost":{"id":"1144988792","kind":"news","pubTimestamp":1621047045,"share":"https://ttm.financial/m/news/1144988792?lang=en_US&edition=fundamental","pubTime":"2021-05-15 10:50","market":"sh","language":"zh","title":"Metersbonwe Chairman Zhou Chengjian: I once forgot I was a \"tailor\"","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1144988792","media":"商业江湖","summary":"2008年美特斯邦威在深交所挂牌上市，在上市仪式上，美邦创始人周成建向深交所赠送了一台镀金小缝纫机，他说：“我最早是一个村庄的裁缝，现在有幸成为中国的裁缝，希望以后还能成为全球的裁缝。”\n此后，“中国","content":"<p>In 2008, Metersbonwe was listed on the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. At the listing ceremony, Zhou Chengjian, founder of Metersbonwe, presented the Shenzhen Stock Exchange with a small gold-plated sewing machine. He said, \"I started as a tailor in a village. Now I am fortunate to become a tailor in China. I hope to become a tailor in the world in the future.\"</p><p>Since then, \"Chinese tailor\" has become Zhou Chengjian's most important label, and he has repeated this phrase on many occasions.</p><p>But 13 years later, Zhou Chengjian began to reflect on his \"inconsistency between words and deeds\".</p><p>On January 28, 2021, sitting in the office of Metersbonwe's headquarters in Kangqiao, Shanghai, Zhou Chengjian told Business World, \"On the surface, I have always emphasized that I am a 'Chinese tailor,' but in reality, in the past few years, I have left the apparel industry and rarely understand the changes in the industry. It is this 'leaving the industry' behavior that has led Metersbonwe to its current predicament.\"</p><p>Ten years ago, Metersbonwe had impressive financial reports.</p><p>In 2008, Metersbonwe's net profit reached 588 million yuan, and they peaked in 2011, when Metersbonwe opened more than 5,000 chain stores nationwide, achieving revenue of 9.945 billion yuan and net profit of 1.206 billion yuan.</p><p>“Back then, we were the clothing company with the strongest supply chain capabilities in China. Our quarter-end sold-out rate could reach 95-97%, and we could even replenish orders in the middle of the quarter by about 45%. Now, however, our quarter-end sold-out rate is only 50-60%,” Zhou Chengjian said.</p><p>Looking back, 2008 was the turning point in Zhou Chengjian's \"tailoring career.\" Before that, he \"focused all his energy on the fashion industry, often traveling to Milan and Paris to exchange clothing designs with local designers.\" However, after going public, he \"went from a farmer to the owner of a listed company, and had more opportunities to work in different circles. He was overconfident and went astray.\"</p><p>“Some people never forget themselves no matter how they get into social circles, but I forgot my last name as I got into it.”</p><p>“I use ‘tailor’ as a slogan every day, but in essence I forget about tailors. My behavior is not based on tailors, which has caused today’s trouble. Now I emphasize ‘awakening and returning’ in the company in the hope of starting with myself, awakening my obsession with ‘making clothes’ and returning to the clothing industry.”</p><p>From starting a business in a hurry, to losing himself, and then to waking up and returning, Zhou Chengjian reviewed his entrepreneurial history to Business Jianghu in an interview lasting more than an hour, and said that he now knows his last name.</p><p>\"I have the surname 'Tailor',\" he said.</p><p><b>01</b></p><p><b>The Great Leap Forward of \"Half-Sleeve\"</b></p><p>Initially, Zhou Chengjian was indeed a tailor.</p><p>When he was 14 years old, he learned to make clothes with his relatives. Later, he came to Wenzhou to work as a garment manufacturer, mainly supplying the Miaoguosi wholesaler.</p><p>“When doing OEM manufacturing, we usually take orders in the afternoon and deliver the goods at noon the next day. The longest time is no more than 72 hours because customers don’t wait that long,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he was extremely busy, taking jobs during the day and cutting at night. When he was tired, he would put a blanket on the cutting board and sleep.</p><p>“Back then, there was a popular joke in our circle: ‘Be a boss by day and sleep on the floor at night,’” he said.</p><p>In his busy schedule, Zhou Chengjian made a mistake. One day while cutting, he drew the wrong size and cut a stack of fabric by more than ten centimeters, resulting in the sleeves of the suits being shorter. He was then \"severely criticized\" by the client, who demanded that he pay over 100,000 yuan in compensation.</p><p>Left with no other option, Zhou Chengjian went to the market to buy another type of fabric to patch together the sleeves. To cover up the mistake, he changed the straight sleeves of his suit to color-matched jacket sleeves and then asked the customer to \"try selling it. If you can sell it, sell it. If you can't sell it, I'll pay for any losses myself.\"</p><p>Unexpectedly, these patchwork suits were very popular in the market and quickly sold out, with many people even coming to \"chase orders\".</p><p>Thus, \"patchwork casual suits\" emerged, becoming a new clothing category.</p><p>“I used to think I was just making clothes for others, but after this incident, I realized that I could also create clothes. After that, I started to put more effort into making clothes. Other companies would buy a piece of clothing and imitate it by cutting it, while I would change some details, such as changing the sleeves or pockets, so that the clothes would look different and my business would be better than others’,” Zhou Chengjian said. “The ‘half-sleeve incident’ was a breakthrough in my career.”</p><p>Through this success, Zhou Chengjian also made a name for himself. He then opened his own clothing stall in Miaoguo Temple, forming a \"front store, back factory\" business model, taking orders during the day and returning to the factory for cutting and processing at night. Under this model, he did all the procurement, design, sewing, and sales himself. He subsequently opened a garment factory in Wenzhou with more than 500 employees, becoming one of the most experienced practitioners in the industry.</p><p>Years later, Zhou Chengjian, who was already the chairman of Metersbonwe, visited partner companies. When factory owners boasted to him about their company's \"strong production capacity,\" Zhou Chengjian would smile and say, \"At least 30% of the employees in your workshop are novices. I can tell their level of proficiency just by listening to the sound of them stepping on the sewing machine.\"</p><p>At that time, he was indeed a genuine \"Wenzhou tailor\".</p><p><b>02</b></p><p><b>Shell companies and borrowed nets for fishing</b></p><p>In April 1995, Zhou Chengjian opened the first Metersbonwe store in Wenzhou. In order to attract customers, he paved the entire Wuma Street in Wenzhou with a red carpet, leading directly to the Metersbonwe store.</p><p>The name Metersbonwe is said to originate from ancient Chinese, meaning \"beautiful and unique here, showcasing the prestige of our country\".</p><p>“I left the wholesale market not because I was already doing very well there, but because I felt that continuing like this was not a long-term solution,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, the Wenzhou clothing market was “unregulated,” with no fixed retail price for clothing and everyone haggling over prices. He felt that this model needed to be changed.</p><p>\"I wanted to be a brand with clearly marked prices and no haggling.\" That's how Metersbonwe was born.</p><p>However, Metersbonwe's innovation in apparel retail doesn't stop there. Due to insufficient funds in the early stages, Zhou Chengjian figured out a \"cost-effective but fast\" development model. He outsourced the most important part of traditional apparel companies—manufacturing and production—while only being responsible for design and brand marketing. At the same time, he attracted franchisees on a large scale. This not only reduced the burden on the company, but also quickly seized the market.</p><p>“I wanted to make a full range of clothing, but my own factory only made woven jackets at the time, and the factory was too busy. So I could only find a full-category supply chain in society to support it. At the same time, I didn’t want to spend so much money on opening a store, so I invited customers who used to do wholesale in wholesale markets to become my franchisees,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he often went to Guangdong to find cooperative suppliers to broaden his product categories.</p><p>\"Simply put, I've essentially outsourced the production workshop and stores. Apart from these two aspects, everything else is our own, such as branding, plate making, and design,\" Zhou Chengjian said. He added that this model sparked a lot of skepticism in its early stages.</p><p>“We either produced it ourselves, or we produced it ourselves and then opened our own specialty stores to sell it. At that time, this model was called the real economy. So when Metersbonwe appeared, some people questioned whether I was ‘not doing my job properly’.”</p><p>Zhou Chengjian recalled that around 1996, about a year after Metersbonwe's establishment, a colleague from the wholesale market accompanied the \"China Garment Association\" to Metersbonwe for research. After the visit, he said to Zhou Chengjian, \"If your company is still alive in a year, I will cut off your head and give it to you.\"</p><p>There is no doubt that every innovation is mixed with huge doubts.</p><p>Looking back today, Metersbonwe established an excellent business model at the time—like major apparel brands such as Nike and Adidas, they used an asset-light model to quickly mobilize social forces, thereby unlocking a huge market share.</p><p>“I didn’t do it after I understood the theory, but after I did it, I verified the correctness of the model through these theories. Looking back, I wasn’t the first in the world to adopt this model. Many European and American brands are global OEMs, and this model has already existed, but I didn’t know about it at the time,” Zhou Chengjian said. He added that he was not an innovator in the world, but in Zhejiang at the time, he was the “first person.”</p><p>Around 1998, Zhang Dejiang, then Secretary of the Zhejiang Provincial Party Committee, visited Wenzhou for research. After listening to Zhou Chengjian's speech, Secretary Zhang said, \"Xiao Zhou, your model is good. You're using a chicken to lay eggs and a net to catch fish.\"</p><p>Subsequently, the Party Secretary wrote a long passage in Metersbonwe's materials, hoping that the national correspondent stations stationed in Zhejiang Province would vigorously promote it and encourage everyone to study Metersbonwe and learn from its model.</p><p>Overnight, Zhou Chengjian became a representative of \"borrowing nets to fish\".</p><p>After a brief period of controversy, the \"asset-light\" model quickly showed its advantages.</p><p>From its founding in 1995 to its IPO in 2008, Metersbonwe created a legend of rapid rise in just 13 years.</p><p>“When we went public, Metersbonwe had retail sales of over 5 billion yuan and nearly a thousand stores, surpassing many companies that were established earlier than us. In terms of scale, influence, professional capabilities and other data, we were number one in the industry. In fact, the second and third places combined may only be two-thirds of ours.”</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that even today, he still feels that this model has no obvious flaws, and \"Metersbonwe's predicament lies in its failure to adhere to the key points of this model, such as product development and supply chain management.\" Behind this is the consequence of his own \"breaking away from the circle.\"</p><p><b>03</b></p><p><b>The \"changes and constants\" after leaving the industry</b></p><p>One bad consequence of \"leaving the circle\" is an increase in \"inventory\".</p><p>“Garment resources should be in the workshop, on the production line, not in the warehouse. High inventory is an abnormal phenomenon. On the one hand, it occupies warehouse space, increases circulation costs, financial costs, and trend lag costs, etc.,” Zhou Chengjian said. He added that the inventory backlog is closely related to his initial behavior of “leaving the industry.”</p><p>Specifically, over the past decade, Metersbonwe has made some mistakes in supply chain management and channel expansion.</p><p>\"Why were we able to achieve a 97% quarter-end sold-out rate before 2008? This is actually closely related to the underlying product development, technology implementation, and product supply chain capabilities,\" said Zhou Chengjian. He added that two mistakes in the supply chain indirectly led to the decrease in the sold-out rate.</p><p>In its early days, Metersbonwe outsourced its \"workshops and stores,\" while keeping its brand and design capabilities in its own hands. They had their own design and R&D teams that could develop the most fashionable clothing according to market needs. However, after going public, a vice president suggested to Zhou Chengjian to \"socialize the design and technology processes.\"</p><p>Simply put, it means outsourcing both ends of the design process.</p><p>“The designer draws a sketch, then sends it to the production factory for trial production. It takes about half a month to a month to make the clothes, and then we review them to see if they are correct,” Zhou Chengjian said. After the company went public, he moved into other circles and didn’t pay much attention to the clothing industry, which led him to make some wrong judgments.</p><p>\"The vice president at the time suggested that this kind of outsourcing could save tens of millions of yuan in costs. After listening to it, I thought it made sense, so I tacitly approved the change.\"</p><p>Another change in the supply chain also occurred at this time.</p><p>\"Another vice president suggested that all fabric and accessory procurement be socialized.\" Prior to this, Metersbonwe's supply chain was relatively closed, and they would choose some long-term cooperative suppliers for procurement. After socialization, they would become raw material procurement for the whole society.</p><p>“After studying at CEIBS, that vice president wrote a related academic paper. After finishing his studies, he came to me and talked about socializing the supply chain, saying that this could save a lot of costs,” Zhou Chengjian said. Although these measures were all suggestions made by the vice president, the problem still lay with him. \"Because I am the authorizer, the manager, and the supporter.\"</p><p>These measures did help Metersbonwe save costs in the short term, but on the other hand, they also meant that Metersbonwe lost its ability to respond quickly in the supply chain and its ability to control product quality.</p><p>“After design outsourcing, there was a significant increase in time costs. The designers’ design drafts and the manufacturers’ finished products were mailed and modified back and forth. Often, a lot of time was spent on a season’s clothes before they could achieve the ideal design and quality,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he was “out of the industry” and did not care about these details, which led to them “going back and forth” and reduced design and production efficiency.</p><p>However, in terms of distribution channels, Metersbonwe has stuck to some outdated standards.</p><p>“At the time, the channel manager repeatedly suggested that I make changes to my retail operations and channel planning, but I did not listen to his suggestions,” Zhou Chengjian said. The manager repeatedly emphasized to him that adjustments should be made to Metersbonwe and ME&CITY stores. For example, ME&CITY should not open large stores, but should open stores of appropriate size in shopping mall districts. At the same time, Metersbonwe stores should not be based on the standard of the giant store on Nanjing Road in Shanghai, but should find other stores to copy the standard.</p><p>He did not adopt any of these suggestions.</p><p>\"Looking back, the biggest change in the market over the past decade has been the change in channels and retail methods. ME&CITY is positioned to serve the new middle class, targeting urban white-collar workers. Over the past decade, the likelihood of urban white-collar workers going to traditional commercial streets has decreased, and this group prefers to shop in shopping malls. Therefore, ME&CITY should set up stores in shopping malls such as MixC, Longfor World, and Kerry Centre, rather than continuing to stay on Huaihai Road or Nanjing Road.\" Correspondingly, Metersbonwe can set up stores in traditional business districts, but the flagship store on Nanjing East Road should not be used as the standard. This store is too large and can be used as a flagship store, but it cannot be promoted nationwide. Zhou Chengjian said that during his time away from the industry, he didn't understand the market conditions enough, which led to him \"not listening to what he should have heard, and listening to what he shouldn't have heard.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian reflected on the reasons for his two wrong decisions: \"Product development and supply chain belong to back-end management. Once the back-end staff is not involved, they will forget what is right and what is wrong. So when I received these suggestions, I felt that I could not judge right and wrong, so I chose to listen to their suggestions. But retail and channels belong to the front-end staff. I see a lot and have a lot of contact with the front-end staff on a daily basis. Even after leaving the industry, I still feel that I am in this situation, so I fall into the experience trap, insist on my own decisions, and am unwilling to accept suggestions.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian admitted that after leaving the industry, he \"detached himself from industry analysis and just listened to advice from an emotional perspective.\" This ultimately led Metersbonwe to take more detours.</p><p><b>04</b></p><p><b>Reflections on the \"Banggou\" and \"Youfanr\" apps</b></p><p>Of course, \"leaving the circle\" is not all a bad thing. From another perspective, Zhou Chengjian, who stands in a higher circle, also saw greater opportunities. Benefiting from the exchange of information \"outside the circle\", he made two major attempts in the Internet industry in 2010 and 2014.</p><p>In 2010, at Metersbonwe's peak, Zhou Chengjian launched Metersbonwe's own e-commerce platform, \"Banggo.com\". Through this e-commerce platform, consumers can scan QR codes to make purchases in physical stores, as well as enjoy multiple functions such as online shopping and offline returns and exchanges.</p><p>In its first year online, Banggo.com achieved 300 million yuan in transactions for the Metersbonwe brand, which is a very good figure. However, it is regrettable that Banggo.com only lasted about a year before ending in disappointment.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian's other, more significant attempt came four years later. In 2014, Metersbonwe acquired the title sponsorship of \"Qipa Talk\" for 50 million yuan; In April of the following year, the \"Youfan\" APP was launched; Subsequently, the \"Youfan\" APP won the title sponsorship for the second and third seasons of \"Qipa Talk\".</p><p>Youfan is an experience platform that focuses on \"trendy and fashionable matching\". Users can communicate with professional stylists at close range through the APP, choose a style that suits them from a large number of personalized brands, get customized and exclusive suggestions, and place orders in real time to share and interact.</p><p>From today's perspective, Youfan is a \"social e-commerce\" APP that has all the attributes of social e-commerce. Benefiting from the traffic generation of Qipa Talk, Youfan ushered in a \"good start\" - it attracted 500,000 users on the first night of its launch, who uploaded 100,000 selfies.</p><p>However, the APP failed to go far in the market, and in August 2017, the \"Youfan\" APP announced its discontinuation.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that both Banggou and Youfan seized the window of opportunity, as can be seen from the rise of Vipshop and Xiaohongshu at the same time. However, neither Banggou nor Youfan went far, and the most crucial reason is that \"they simply didn't understand it.\"</p><p>“Banggou and Youfan were both positioned as our own channels, failing to expand into platform attributes. We always thought about making them new channels for Metersbonwe, rather than making them a mass-market platform that could encompass more brands. This is the result of laypeople blindly investing without understanding this,” Zhou Chengjian used an analogy. He explained that whether it was Nanjing East Road, Tmall, or Suning, they were all social channels. “Business districts need groups, and that’s what a business district is. But positioning Banggou and Youfan as Metersbonwe’s own channels is like opening a Metersbonwe store in the Metersbonwe factory area. This logic itself is wrong and impossible to succeed, but I didn’t understand it at the time.”</p><p>He said that the lesson he learned from this incident was that \"decisions made from outside the industry must be done in an outside way, and we cannot follow the methods of the industry, otherwise we will definitely fail.\"</p><p><b>05</b></p><p><b>regression</b></p><p>After nearly a decade of ups and downs, Zhou Chengjian decided to return to his role as a \"tailor\".</p><p>“There’s no turning back. The company is doing so poorly. Unless I give up, I have to think about doing it well again.” Since 2018, Zhou Chengjian has begun to gradually return, and the first thing he did after returning was to “correct his mistakes.”</p><p>He has reorganized Metersbonwe's current channels and supply chain and is working to make up for the \"wrong decision\" he made in the past.</p><p>“Our key problem now is the misalignment of resources. I asked the team to rethink how to make and sell clothes. For example, how to sell clothes? How to match current resources to the corresponding channels.”</p><p>Metersbonwe then conducted a full-channel classification analysis of online and offline channels.</p><p>\"Whether it's traditional online platforms like JD.com and Tmall, newly emerging social e-commerce platforms, or offline business districts and shopping malls, we hope to analyze and plan for these omnichannels to find the answers to who we want to sell to and how we want to sell. After clarifying these questions, we can then make product planning and supply chain support based on this precise market.\"</p><p>In 2015, in order to expand its reach, Metersbonwe launched \"five major styles\": casual NEWear, trendy HYSTYL, urban light business Nōvachic, street trendy MTEE, and forest-style ASELF. Metersbonwe hopes that these diverse styles can satisfy more consumers.</p><p>“This strategy is correct, but from a single perspective, they cannot meet market demand individually. We need to delve into these styles to gradually clarify their consumer groups and consumption regions. For example, trend lines sell very well in Northeast China, but we allocate resources evenly across the country, which is ‘resource misalignment’.”</p><p>Currently, Zhou Chengjian is precisely matching five styles with channels and regional markets. \"Based on market demand and combined with the company's capabilities, I will first focus on a certain style, then gradually implement it and break through it one by one.\"</p><p>In addition to precise channel matching, supply chain management has also become a key focus for Metersbonwe's self-rescue efforts.</p><p>They withdrew the \"technology research and development\" process that they had blindly outsourced, reorganized the supply chain, and achieved a \"closed-loop path from trends to clothing.\"</p><p>“We now have our own design team and sample garment factory. The design and production of sample garments are completed internally, which greatly improves efficiency and increases the controllability of clothing design and quality. We have just completed the research and development of ME&CITY in the fall of 2021, and the company is very satisfied with the products for this season.”</p><p>In terms of channels, Zhou Chengjian finally changed the standards he had previously adhered to, reorganized the channel standards, and readjusted them from \"location\" to area.</p><p>\"In addition, we have also streamlined the precise matching of products through different channels, making the entire operation more refined, standardized, and replicable, which has given franchisees confidence.\"</p><p>\"Through the review in the second half of last year, we found that many partners who returned to franchise and cooperate several years ago have reached the same scale as last year in the first quarter of this year (2021). In the first quarter, we have determined that the area of stores to be developed is already greater than the area to be developed in last year.\"</p><p>“I hope that Metersbonwe can rediscover its core competitiveness and get the whole company back to the business of making and selling clothes. Now I think we have a very clear strategy and path, but we have not yet fully achieved this core advantage. We are just embarking on the journey of returning to the business.”</p><p>From venturing into Wenzhou alone as a teenager, to becoming the richest man in the clothing industry after going public, and now returning to his original intention as a tailor, Zhou Chengjian has indeed taken an \"unusual path\".</p><p>“It is very difficult for people to understand themselves, and it is even more difficult to manage themselves. Through repeated trials and tribulations, we will always grow and mature, and we will always understand ourselves better than before. I have tried and experienced it. If I still have the chance to come back, that would be a blessing in itself... Today, if people can still label me as a ‘tailor,’ I would be satisfied.” Zhou Chengjian said, holding a teacup against the huge glass window.</p>","source":"lsy1621046853013","collect":0,"html":"<!DOCTYPE html>\n<html>\n<head>\n<meta http-equiv=\"Content-Type\" content=\"text/html; charset=utf-8\" />\n<meta name=\"viewport\" content=\"width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0,user-scalable=no\"/>\n<meta name=\"format-detection\" content=\"telephone=no,email=no,address=no\" />\n<title>Metersbonwe Chairman Zhou Chengjian: I once forgot I was a \"tailor\"</title>\n<style type=\"text/css\">\na,abbr,acronym,address,applet,article,aside,audio,b,big,blockquote,body,canvas,caption,center,cite,code,dd,del,details,dfn,div,dl,dt,\nem,embed,fieldset,figcaption,figure,footer,form,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,header,hgroup,html,i,iframe,img,ins,kbd,label,legend,li,mark,menu,nav,\nobject,ol,output,p,pre,q,ruby,s,samp,section,small,span,strike,strong,sub,summary,sup,table,tbody,td,tfoot,th,thead,time,tr,tt,u,ul,var,video{ font:inherit;margin:0;padding:0;vertical-align:baseline;border:0 }\nbody{ font-size:16px; line-height:1.5; color:#999; background:transparent; }\n.wrapper{ overflow:hidden;word-break:break-all;padding:10px; }\nh1,h2{ font-weight:normal; line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:.6em; }\nh3,h4,h5,h6{ line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:1em; }\nh1{ font-size:24px; }\nh2{ font-size:20px; }\nh3{ font-size:18px; }\nh4{ font-size:16px; }\nh5{ font-size:14px; }\nh6{ font-size:12px; }\np,ul,ol,blockquote,dl,table{ margin:1.2em 0; }\nul,ol{ margin-left:2em; }\nul{ list-style:disc; }\nol{ list-style:decimal; }\nli,li p{ margin:10px 0;}\nimg{ max-width:100%;display:block;margin:0 auto 1em; }\nblockquote{ color:#B5B2B1; border-left:3px solid #aaa; padding:1em; }\nstrong,b{font-weight:bold;}\nem,i{font-style:italic;}\ntable{ width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;border-spacing:1px;margin:1em 0;font-size:.9em; }\nth,td{ padding:5px;text-align:left;border:1px solid #aaa; }\nth{ font-weight:bold;background:#5d5d5d; }\n.symbol-link{font-weight:bold;}\n/* header{ border-bottom:1px solid #494756; } */\n.title{ margin:0 0 8px;line-height:1.3;color:#ddd; }\n.meta {color:#5e5c6d;font-size:13px;margin:0 0 .5em; }\na{text-decoration:none; color:#2a4b87;}\n.meta .head { display: inline-block; overflow: hidden}\n.head .h-thumb { width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%; float: left;}\n.head .h-content { margin: 0; padding: 0 0 0 9px; float: left;}\n.head .h-name {font-size: 13px; color: #eee; margin: 0;}\n.head .h-time {font-size: 12.5px; color: #7E829C; margin: 0;}\n.small {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.9); -webkit-transform: scale(0.9); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.smaller {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.8); -webkit-transform: scale(0.8); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.bt-text {font-size: 12px;margin: 1.5em 0 0 0}\n.bt-text p {margin: 0}\n</style>\n</head>\n<body>\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<header>\n<h2 class=\"title\">\nMetersbonwe Chairman Zhou Chengjian: I once forgot I was a \"tailor\"\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<p class=\"head\">\n<strong class=\"h-name small\">商业江湖</strong><span class=\"h-time small\">2021-05-15 10:50</span>\n</p>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p>In 2008, Metersbonwe was listed on the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. At the listing ceremony, Zhou Chengjian, founder of Metersbonwe, presented the Shenzhen Stock Exchange with a small gold-plated sewing machine. He said, \"I started as a tailor in a village. Now I am fortunate to become a tailor in China. I hope to become a tailor in the world in the future.\"</p><p>Since then, \"Chinese tailor\" has become Zhou Chengjian's most important label, and he has repeated this phrase on many occasions.</p><p>But 13 years later, Zhou Chengjian began to reflect on his \"inconsistency between words and deeds\".</p><p>On January 28, 2021, sitting in the office of Metersbonwe's headquarters in Kangqiao, Shanghai, Zhou Chengjian told Business World, \"On the surface, I have always emphasized that I am a 'Chinese tailor,' but in reality, in the past few years, I have left the apparel industry and rarely understand the changes in the industry. It is this 'leaving the industry' behavior that has led Metersbonwe to its current predicament.\"</p><p>Ten years ago, Metersbonwe had impressive financial reports.</p><p>In 2008, Metersbonwe's net profit reached 588 million yuan, and they peaked in 2011, when Metersbonwe opened more than 5,000 chain stores nationwide, achieving revenue of 9.945 billion yuan and net profit of 1.206 billion yuan.</p><p>“Back then, we were the clothing company with the strongest supply chain capabilities in China. Our quarter-end sold-out rate could reach 95-97%, and we could even replenish orders in the middle of the quarter by about 45%. Now, however, our quarter-end sold-out rate is only 50-60%,” Zhou Chengjian said.</p><p>Looking back, 2008 was the turning point in Zhou Chengjian's \"tailoring career.\" Before that, he \"focused all his energy on the fashion industry, often traveling to Milan and Paris to exchange clothing designs with local designers.\" However, after going public, he \"went from a farmer to the owner of a listed company, and had more opportunities to work in different circles. He was overconfident and went astray.\"</p><p>“Some people never forget themselves no matter how they get into social circles, but I forgot my last name as I got into it.”</p><p>“I use ‘tailor’ as a slogan every day, but in essence I forget about tailors. My behavior is not based on tailors, which has caused today’s trouble. Now I emphasize ‘awakening and returning’ in the company in the hope of starting with myself, awakening my obsession with ‘making clothes’ and returning to the clothing industry.”</p><p>From starting a business in a hurry, to losing himself, and then to waking up and returning, Zhou Chengjian reviewed his entrepreneurial history to Business Jianghu in an interview lasting more than an hour, and said that he now knows his last name.</p><p>\"I have the surname 'Tailor',\" he said.</p><p><b>01</b></p><p><b>The Great Leap Forward of \"Half-Sleeve\"</b></p><p>Initially, Zhou Chengjian was indeed a tailor.</p><p>When he was 14 years old, he learned to make clothes with his relatives. Later, he came to Wenzhou to work as a garment manufacturer, mainly supplying the Miaoguosi wholesaler.</p><p>“When doing OEM manufacturing, we usually take orders in the afternoon and deliver the goods at noon the next day. The longest time is no more than 72 hours because customers don’t wait that long,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he was extremely busy, taking jobs during the day and cutting at night. When he was tired, he would put a blanket on the cutting board and sleep.</p><p>“Back then, there was a popular joke in our circle: ‘Be a boss by day and sleep on the floor at night,’” he said.</p><p>In his busy schedule, Zhou Chengjian made a mistake. One day while cutting, he drew the wrong size and cut a stack of fabric by more than ten centimeters, resulting in the sleeves of the suits being shorter. He was then \"severely criticized\" by the client, who demanded that he pay over 100,000 yuan in compensation.</p><p>Left with no other option, Zhou Chengjian went to the market to buy another type of fabric to patch together the sleeves. To cover up the mistake, he changed the straight sleeves of his suit to color-matched jacket sleeves and then asked the customer to \"try selling it. If you can sell it, sell it. If you can't sell it, I'll pay for any losses myself.\"</p><p>Unexpectedly, these patchwork suits were very popular in the market and quickly sold out, with many people even coming to \"chase orders\".</p><p>Thus, \"patchwork casual suits\" emerged, becoming a new clothing category.</p><p>“I used to think I was just making clothes for others, but after this incident, I realized that I could also create clothes. After that, I started to put more effort into making clothes. Other companies would buy a piece of clothing and imitate it by cutting it, while I would change some details, such as changing the sleeves or pockets, so that the clothes would look different and my business would be better than others’,” Zhou Chengjian said. “The ‘half-sleeve incident’ was a breakthrough in my career.”</p><p>Through this success, Zhou Chengjian also made a name for himself. He then opened his own clothing stall in Miaoguo Temple, forming a \"front store, back factory\" business model, taking orders during the day and returning to the factory for cutting and processing at night. Under this model, he did all the procurement, design, sewing, and sales himself. He subsequently opened a garment factory in Wenzhou with more than 500 employees, becoming one of the most experienced practitioners in the industry.</p><p>Years later, Zhou Chengjian, who was already the chairman of Metersbonwe, visited partner companies. When factory owners boasted to him about their company's \"strong production capacity,\" Zhou Chengjian would smile and say, \"At least 30% of the employees in your workshop are novices. I can tell their level of proficiency just by listening to the sound of them stepping on the sewing machine.\"</p><p>At that time, he was indeed a genuine \"Wenzhou tailor\".</p><p><b>02</b></p><p><b>Shell companies and borrowed nets for fishing</b></p><p>In April 1995, Zhou Chengjian opened the first Metersbonwe store in Wenzhou. In order to attract customers, he paved the entire Wuma Street in Wenzhou with a red carpet, leading directly to the Metersbonwe store.</p><p>The name Metersbonwe is said to originate from ancient Chinese, meaning \"beautiful and unique here, showcasing the prestige of our country\".</p><p>“I left the wholesale market not because I was already doing very well there, but because I felt that continuing like this was not a long-term solution,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, the Wenzhou clothing market was “unregulated,” with no fixed retail price for clothing and everyone haggling over prices. He felt that this model needed to be changed.</p><p>\"I wanted to be a brand with clearly marked prices and no haggling.\" That's how Metersbonwe was born.</p><p>However, Metersbonwe's innovation in apparel retail doesn't stop there. Due to insufficient funds in the early stages, Zhou Chengjian figured out a \"cost-effective but fast\" development model. He outsourced the most important part of traditional apparel companies—manufacturing and production—while only being responsible for design and brand marketing. At the same time, he attracted franchisees on a large scale. This not only reduced the burden on the company, but also quickly seized the market.</p><p>“I wanted to make a full range of clothing, but my own factory only made woven jackets at the time, and the factory was too busy. So I could only find a full-category supply chain in society to support it. At the same time, I didn’t want to spend so much money on opening a store, so I invited customers who used to do wholesale in wholesale markets to become my franchisees,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he often went to Guangdong to find cooperative suppliers to broaden his product categories.</p><p>\"Simply put, I've essentially outsourced the production workshop and stores. Apart from these two aspects, everything else is our own, such as branding, plate making, and design,\" Zhou Chengjian said. He added that this model sparked a lot of skepticism in its early stages.</p><p>“We either produced it ourselves, or we produced it ourselves and then opened our own specialty stores to sell it. At that time, this model was called the real economy. So when Metersbonwe appeared, some people questioned whether I was ‘not doing my job properly’.”</p><p>Zhou Chengjian recalled that around 1996, about a year after Metersbonwe's establishment, a colleague from the wholesale market accompanied the \"China Garment Association\" to Metersbonwe for research. After the visit, he said to Zhou Chengjian, \"If your company is still alive in a year, I will cut off your head and give it to you.\"</p><p>There is no doubt that every innovation is mixed with huge doubts.</p><p>Looking back today, Metersbonwe established an excellent business model at the time—like major apparel brands such as Nike and Adidas, they used an asset-light model to quickly mobilize social forces, thereby unlocking a huge market share.</p><p>“I didn’t do it after I understood the theory, but after I did it, I verified the correctness of the model through these theories. Looking back, I wasn’t the first in the world to adopt this model. Many European and American brands are global OEMs, and this model has already existed, but I didn’t know about it at the time,” Zhou Chengjian said. He added that he was not an innovator in the world, but in Zhejiang at the time, he was the “first person.”</p><p>Around 1998, Zhang Dejiang, then Secretary of the Zhejiang Provincial Party Committee, visited Wenzhou for research. After listening to Zhou Chengjian's speech, Secretary Zhang said, \"Xiao Zhou, your model is good. You're using a chicken to lay eggs and a net to catch fish.\"</p><p>Subsequently, the Party Secretary wrote a long passage in Metersbonwe's materials, hoping that the national correspondent stations stationed in Zhejiang Province would vigorously promote it and encourage everyone to study Metersbonwe and learn from its model.</p><p>Overnight, Zhou Chengjian became a representative of \"borrowing nets to fish\".</p><p>After a brief period of controversy, the \"asset-light\" model quickly showed its advantages.</p><p>From its founding in 1995 to its IPO in 2008, Metersbonwe created a legend of rapid rise in just 13 years.</p><p>“When we went public, Metersbonwe had retail sales of over 5 billion yuan and nearly a thousand stores, surpassing many companies that were established earlier than us. In terms of scale, influence, professional capabilities and other data, we were number one in the industry. In fact, the second and third places combined may only be two-thirds of ours.”</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that even today, he still feels that this model has no obvious flaws, and \"Metersbonwe's predicament lies in its failure to adhere to the key points of this model, such as product development and supply chain management.\" Behind this is the consequence of his own \"breaking away from the circle.\"</p><p><b>03</b></p><p><b>The \"changes and constants\" after leaving the industry</b></p><p>One bad consequence of \"leaving the circle\" is an increase in \"inventory\".</p><p>“Garment resources should be in the workshop, on the production line, not in the warehouse. High inventory is an abnormal phenomenon. On the one hand, it occupies warehouse space, increases circulation costs, financial costs, and trend lag costs, etc.,” Zhou Chengjian said. He added that the inventory backlog is closely related to his initial behavior of “leaving the industry.”</p><p>Specifically, over the past decade, Metersbonwe has made some mistakes in supply chain management and channel expansion.</p><p>\"Why were we able to achieve a 97% quarter-end sold-out rate before 2008? This is actually closely related to the underlying product development, technology implementation, and product supply chain capabilities,\" said Zhou Chengjian. He added that two mistakes in the supply chain indirectly led to the decrease in the sold-out rate.</p><p>In its early days, Metersbonwe outsourced its \"workshops and stores,\" while keeping its brand and design capabilities in its own hands. They had their own design and R&D teams that could develop the most fashionable clothing according to market needs. However, after going public, a vice president suggested to Zhou Chengjian to \"socialize the design and technology processes.\"</p><p>Simply put, it means outsourcing both ends of the design process.</p><p>“The designer draws a sketch, then sends it to the production factory for trial production. It takes about half a month to a month to make the clothes, and then we review them to see if they are correct,” Zhou Chengjian said. After the company went public, he moved into other circles and didn’t pay much attention to the clothing industry, which led him to make some wrong judgments.</p><p>\"The vice president at the time suggested that this kind of outsourcing could save tens of millions of yuan in costs. After listening to it, I thought it made sense, so I tacitly approved the change.\"</p><p>Another change in the supply chain also occurred at this time.</p><p>\"Another vice president suggested that all fabric and accessory procurement be socialized.\" Prior to this, Metersbonwe's supply chain was relatively closed, and they would choose some long-term cooperative suppliers for procurement. After socialization, they would become raw material procurement for the whole society.</p><p>“After studying at CEIBS, that vice president wrote a related academic paper. After finishing his studies, he came to me and talked about socializing the supply chain, saying that this could save a lot of costs,” Zhou Chengjian said. Although these measures were all suggestions made by the vice president, the problem still lay with him. \"Because I am the authorizer, the manager, and the supporter.\"</p><p>These measures did help Metersbonwe save costs in the short term, but on the other hand, they also meant that Metersbonwe lost its ability to respond quickly in the supply chain and its ability to control product quality.</p><p>“After design outsourcing, there was a significant increase in time costs. The designers’ design drafts and the manufacturers’ finished products were mailed and modified back and forth. Often, a lot of time was spent on a season’s clothes before they could achieve the ideal design and quality,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he was “out of the industry” and did not care about these details, which led to them “going back and forth” and reduced design and production efficiency.</p><p>However, in terms of distribution channels, Metersbonwe has stuck to some outdated standards.</p><p>“At the time, the channel manager repeatedly suggested that I make changes to my retail operations and channel planning, but I did not listen to his suggestions,” Zhou Chengjian said. The manager repeatedly emphasized to him that adjustments should be made to Metersbonwe and ME&CITY stores. For example, ME&CITY should not open large stores, but should open stores of appropriate size in shopping mall districts. At the same time, Metersbonwe stores should not be based on the standard of the giant store on Nanjing Road in Shanghai, but should find other stores to copy the standard.</p><p>He did not adopt any of these suggestions.</p><p>\"Looking back, the biggest change in the market over the past decade has been the change in channels and retail methods. ME&CITY is positioned to serve the new middle class, targeting urban white-collar workers. Over the past decade, the likelihood of urban white-collar workers going to traditional commercial streets has decreased, and this group prefers to shop in shopping malls. Therefore, ME&CITY should set up stores in shopping malls such as MixC, Longfor World, and Kerry Centre, rather than continuing to stay on Huaihai Road or Nanjing Road.\" Correspondingly, Metersbonwe can set up stores in traditional business districts, but the flagship store on Nanjing East Road should not be used as the standard. This store is too large and can be used as a flagship store, but it cannot be promoted nationwide. Zhou Chengjian said that during his time away from the industry, he didn't understand the market conditions enough, which led to him \"not listening to what he should have heard, and listening to what he shouldn't have heard.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian reflected on the reasons for his two wrong decisions: \"Product development and supply chain belong to back-end management. Once the back-end staff is not involved, they will forget what is right and what is wrong. So when I received these suggestions, I felt that I could not judge right and wrong, so I chose to listen to their suggestions. But retail and channels belong to the front-end staff. I see a lot and have a lot of contact with the front-end staff on a daily basis. Even after leaving the industry, I still feel that I am in this situation, so I fall into the experience trap, insist on my own decisions, and am unwilling to accept suggestions.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian admitted that after leaving the industry, he \"detached himself from industry analysis and just listened to advice from an emotional perspective.\" This ultimately led Metersbonwe to take more detours.</p><p><b>04</b></p><p><b>Reflections on the \"Banggou\" and \"Youfanr\" apps</b></p><p>Of course, \"leaving the circle\" is not all a bad thing. From another perspective, Zhou Chengjian, who stands in a higher circle, also saw greater opportunities. Benefiting from the exchange of information \"outside the circle\", he made two major attempts in the Internet industry in 2010 and 2014.</p><p>In 2010, at Metersbonwe's peak, Zhou Chengjian launched Metersbonwe's own e-commerce platform, \"Banggo.com\". Through this e-commerce platform, consumers can scan QR codes to make purchases in physical stores, as well as enjoy multiple functions such as online shopping and offline returns and exchanges.</p><p>In its first year online, Banggo.com achieved 300 million yuan in transactions for the Metersbonwe brand, which is a very good figure. However, it is regrettable that Banggo.com only lasted about a year before ending in disappointment.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian's other, more significant attempt came four years later. In 2014, Metersbonwe acquired the title sponsorship of \"Qipa Talk\" for 50 million yuan; In April of the following year, the \"Youfan\" APP was launched; Subsequently, the \"Youfan\" APP won the title sponsorship for the second and third seasons of \"Qipa Talk\".</p><p>Youfan is an experience platform that focuses on \"trendy and fashionable matching\". Users can communicate with professional stylists at close range through the APP, choose a style that suits them from a large number of personalized brands, get customized and exclusive suggestions, and place orders in real time to share and interact.</p><p>From today's perspective, Youfan is a \"social e-commerce\" APP that has all the attributes of social e-commerce. Benefiting from the traffic generation of Qipa Talk, Youfan ushered in a \"good start\" - it attracted 500,000 users on the first night of its launch, who uploaded 100,000 selfies.</p><p>However, the APP failed to go far in the market, and in August 2017, the \"Youfan\" APP announced its discontinuation.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that both Banggou and Youfan seized the window of opportunity, as can be seen from the rise of Vipshop and Xiaohongshu at the same time. However, neither Banggou nor Youfan went far, and the most crucial reason is that \"they simply didn't understand it.\"</p><p>“Banggou and Youfan were both positioned as our own channels, failing to expand into platform attributes. We always thought about making them new channels for Metersbonwe, rather than making them a mass-market platform that could encompass more brands. This is the result of laypeople blindly investing without understanding this,” Zhou Chengjian used an analogy. He explained that whether it was Nanjing East Road, Tmall, or Suning, they were all social channels. “Business districts need groups, and that’s what a business district is. But positioning Banggou and Youfan as Metersbonwe’s own channels is like opening a Metersbonwe store in the Metersbonwe factory area. This logic itself is wrong and impossible to succeed, but I didn’t understand it at the time.”</p><p>He said that the lesson he learned from this incident was that \"decisions made from outside the industry must be done in an outside way, and we cannot follow the methods of the industry, otherwise we will definitely fail.\"</p><p><b>05</b></p><p><b>regression</b></p><p>After nearly a decade of ups and downs, Zhou Chengjian decided to return to his role as a \"tailor\".</p><p>“There’s no turning back. The company is doing so poorly. Unless I give up, I have to think about doing it well again.” Since 2018, Zhou Chengjian has begun to gradually return, and the first thing he did after returning was to “correct his mistakes.”</p><p>He has reorganized Metersbonwe's current channels and supply chain and is working to make up for the \"wrong decision\" he made in the past.</p><p>“Our key problem now is the misalignment of resources. I asked the team to rethink how to make and sell clothes. For example, how to sell clothes? How to match current resources to the corresponding channels.”</p><p>Metersbonwe then conducted a full-channel classification analysis of online and offline channels.</p><p>\"Whether it's traditional online platforms like JD.com and Tmall, newly emerging social e-commerce platforms, or offline business districts and shopping malls, we hope to analyze and plan for these omnichannels to find the answers to who we want to sell to and how we want to sell. After clarifying these questions, we can then make product planning and supply chain support based on this precise market.\"</p><p>In 2015, in order to expand its reach, Metersbonwe launched \"five major styles\": casual NEWear, trendy HYSTYL, urban light business Nōvachic, street trendy MTEE, and forest-style ASELF. Metersbonwe hopes that these diverse styles can satisfy more consumers.</p><p>“This strategy is correct, but from a single perspective, they cannot meet market demand individually. We need to delve into these styles to gradually clarify their consumer groups and consumption regions. For example, trend lines sell very well in Northeast China, but we allocate resources evenly across the country, which is ‘resource misalignment’.”</p><p>Currently, Zhou Chengjian is precisely matching five styles with channels and regional markets. \"Based on market demand and combined with the company's capabilities, I will first focus on a certain style, then gradually implement it and break through it one by one.\"</p><p>In addition to precise channel matching, supply chain management has also become a key focus for Metersbonwe's self-rescue efforts.</p><p>They withdrew the \"technology research and development\" process that they had blindly outsourced, reorganized the supply chain, and achieved a \"closed-loop path from trends to clothing.\"</p><p>“We now have our own design team and sample garment factory. The design and production of sample garments are completed internally, which greatly improves efficiency and increases the controllability of clothing design and quality. We have just completed the research and development of ME&CITY in the fall of 2021, and the company is very satisfied with the products for this season.”</p><p>In terms of channels, Zhou Chengjian finally changed the standards he had previously adhered to, reorganized the channel standards, and readjusted them from \"location\" to area.</p><p>\"In addition, we have also streamlined the precise matching of products through different channels, making the entire operation more refined, standardized, and replicable, which has given franchisees confidence.\"</p><p>\"Through the review in the second half of last year, we found that many partners who returned to franchise and cooperate several years ago have reached the same scale as last year in the first quarter of this year (2021). In the first quarter, we have determined that the area of stores to be developed is already greater than the area to be developed in last year.\"</p><p>“I hope that Metersbonwe can rediscover its core competitiveness and get the whole company back to the business of making and selling clothes. Now I think we have a very clear strategy and path, but we have not yet fully achieved this core advantage. We are just embarking on the journey of returning to the business.”</p><p>From venturing into Wenzhou alone as a teenager, to becoming the richest man in the clothing industry after going public, and now returning to his original intention as a tailor, Zhou Chengjian has indeed taken an \"unusual path\".</p><p>“It is very difficult for people to understand themselves, and it is even more difficult to manage themselves. Through repeated trials and tribulations, we will always grow and mature, and we will always understand ourselves better than before. I have tried and experienced it. If I still have the chance to come back, that would be a blessing in itself... Today, if people can still label me as a ‘tailor,’ I would be satisfied.” Zhou Chengjian said, holding a teacup against the huge glass window.</p>\n<div class=\"bt-text\">\n\n\n<p> source：<a href=\"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Xr9zecdJ2WDX3N_tPWSpZA\">商业江湖</a></p>\n\n\n</div>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/d4130e6389dd597b1fd98bec5929e58b","relate_stocks":{"002269":"美邦服饰"},"source_url":"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Xr9zecdJ2WDX3N_tPWSpZA","is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1144988792","content_text":"2008年美特斯邦威在深交所挂牌上市，在上市仪式上，美邦创始人周成建向深交所赠送了一台镀金小缝纫机，他说：“我最早是一个村庄的裁缝，现在有幸成为中国的裁缝，希望以后还能成为全球的裁缝。”\n此后，“中国裁缝”成为周成建最重要的标签，他在多个场合重复这个说法。\n但13年后，周成建开始反思自己的“言行不一”。\n2021年1月28日，坐在上海康桥美邦总部办公室里，周成建对《商业江湖》说，“表面上我一直强调自己做‘中国裁缝’，但实际上，在过去的若干年里我一度脱离服装圈，很少了解行业的变化，正是这种‘脱圈’行为让美邦出现今天的困局。”\n十年前，美邦有着漂亮的财报数据。\n2008年，美特斯邦威的净利润已经达到5.88亿元，而他们在2011年达到顶峰，当年美邦在全国开设了5000多家连锁店，实现营收99.45亿元、净利12.06亿元。\n“那时，我们是国内供应链能力最强的服装公司，我们季末售罄率可以达到95-97%，甚至季中补单还可以做到45%左右，而现在我们的季末售罄率只有50-60%。”周成建说。\n回头看，2008年是周成建“裁缝生涯”的拐点，此前他“所有的精力都在服装这个圈子，经常跑到米兰、巴黎和当地设计师交流服装设计”，而上市后，他“从一个农民变成上市公司老板，混不同圈子机会也多了，整个人自信过头，跑偏了。”\n“有些人混圈子不管怎么混都不会忘记自己，而我混着混着把自己姓什么忘了。”\n“我天天把‘裁缝’当做口号，但本质上又忘了裁缝，行为不基于裁缝就造成了今天的麻烦，而现在我在公司里强调‘唤醒和回归’就是希望从我做起，唤醒对‘做衣服’的执念，回归服装圈。”\n从草莽创业，到迷失自我，再到唤醒回归，周成建在一个多小时的采访中向《商业江湖》回顾了自己的创业史，并表示现在他知道自己姓什么了。\n“我是姓‘裁缝’的人。”他说。\n01\n“半截袖”的大跃进\n最初，周成建确实是一个裁缝。\n他14岁时随着亲戚学做衣服，后来到温州做服装代加工，主要为妙果寺批发商供货。\n“做代加工一般都是下午接单，第二天中午交货，最长也不会超过72小时，因为客人不会等这么久。”周成建说，那时他忙的焦头烂额，白天接活晚上裁剪，困了就在剪板上放上被子睡觉。\n“那时候我们圈里流行一句调侃‘白天当老板，晚上睡地板。’”他说。\n忙中出错，一天在裁剪时，周成建画错了尺寸，将一沓布料多裁了十几厘米，导致这批西装的袖子短了一截。随后他“被客户骂的狗血淋头”，对方让他赔偿十几万。\n无奈之下周成建去市场上买了另一种布料来拼接衣袖，为了掩盖失误，他将西装的直袖改成了拼色的夹克袖，然后请客户“试着卖一下，能卖就卖，卖不了损失多少我自己赔付。”\n出乎意料的是这种拼接西服受到市场的追捧，很快就抢购一空，甚至很多人前来“追单”。\n就这样“拼接版的休闲西服”横空出世，成为一个新的服装品类。\n“我以前认为自己只是帮人家做衣服，但经过这个事情之后我意识到我还可以创造衣服，此后我开始在做衣服上花心思，别家是买过来一件衣服仿照着裁剪，而我会将衣服改一些细节，比如改个袖子或者口袋，这样衣服就显得与众不同，生意也就比别人的好一些。”周成建说，“半截袖事件”是自己事业上的一个突破点。\n经此一役，周成建也闯出了名声，随后他在妙果寺开设了自己的服装摊位，形成了“前店后厂”的经营模式，白天接单晚上回厂里裁剪加工。这种模式下，采购、设计、缝制、销售等环节，全部自己做，随后他在温州开办了500多人的制衣工厂，成为这个行业最具经验的从业者。\n数年后，已经是美特斯邦威董事长的周成建去合作伙伴公司参观，在那些工厂老板跟他夸口自己公司“生产能力多强”的时候，周成建会笑着说，“你们车间至少有三成员工是新手，我听他们踩缝纫机的声音就能知道他们的熟练程度。”\n那时候的他确实是一个地道的“温州裁缝”。\n02\n皮包公司和借网捕鱼\n1995年4月，周成建在温州开设了第一家美特斯邦威专卖店，为了吸引顾客，他将温州五马街全部铺上了红地毯，直通美邦门店。\n美特斯邦威的名字据说源自古风中文，意指“美丽特别斯于此，扬我国邦之威”。\n“我离开批发市场并非是在批发市场已经做的很好，而是我觉得这样下去不是长久之计。”周成建说当时温州服装市场“不规范”，服装都没有固定的零售价格，所有人都在讨价还价，他觉得这种模式需要改一改。\n“我想要做一个明码标价，不讨价还价的品牌。”于是美特斯邦威诞生了。\n不过美邦对于服装零售的创新不止于此，因为前期资金不足，周成建琢磨出一套“省钱但快速的”发展模式——他将传统服装企业最重的部分——制造、生产外包，自身只负责设计和品牌营销，同时大规模的招徕加盟商，这样一方面减轻了企业负担，同时也快速的抢占了市场。\n“我要做全品类的服装，但我自己的工厂当时只做梭织夹克，工厂也忙不过来，所以我只能找社会上的全品类供应链来支撑，同时开店方面我也不想花那么多钱，于是把曾经在批发市场做批发的客户邀请过来成为我的加盟商。”周成建说，那时候他经常去广东找合作供应商，去拓宽品类。\n“简单的说我相当于把生产车间和门店外包了，而这两个环节之外，其他东西都是我们自己的，比如品牌、制版、设计等环节自己做。”周成建说，这个模式在创立初期引发了诸多质疑。\n“要么自己生产，要么自己生产再自己开专卖店销售，那时候这种模式才叫实体经济，所以美邦一出现就有人质疑我‘不务正业’。”\n周成建回忆说，1996年前后，也就是美邦成立一年左右，批发市场的一个同行随同“中国服饰协会”到美邦做调研，参观完后对周成建说，“一年之后你的公司如果还活着，我把头割下来送给你。”\n毫无疑问，每一次创新都夹杂着巨大的质疑。\n站在今天回头看，当时的美邦创立了一个非常优秀的商业模式——像Nike、阿迪等大型服饰品牌一样，他们用了一种轻资产模式快速发动社会力量，继而撬动了一个巨大的市场蛋糕。\n“我不是想明白了理论之后再去做的，而是做完了之后通过这些理论验证了这个模式的正确性，回头看我在全世界并不是最早采用这个模式的，欧美很多品牌都是全球代工，这种模式早已存在，只是当时的我并不知道。”周成建说，放到全世界来看，他不是创新者，但在当时的浙江，他是“第一人”。\n1998年前后，时任浙江省委书记的张德江到温州调研，在听取了周成建的发言后，张书记说，“小周，你这个模式好，你这是借鸡生蛋，借网捕鱼。”\n随后，书记在美邦的材料中批复了很长的一段话，希望全国驻浙江省记者站大力宣传，让大家研究美邦，学习美邦模式。\n一夜之间，周成建成为“借网捕鱼”的代表者。\n在经过短暂的争议后，“轻资产”模式很快就显现出他的优势。\n从1995年创立到2008年上市，在短短的13年里，美邦创造了一个快速崛起的神话。\n“上市时美邦零售额50多亿，有近千家门店，超越了许多比我们成立更早的公司，从规模、影响力、专业能力等各项数据比较我们都是行业第一名，甚至第二、第三名加起来可能只是我们的2/3。”\n周成建说，直到今天，他都觉得这个模式没有明显的缺点，而“美邦的困境在于自己没有坚持这个模式中的关键点，比如产品研发和供应链管理。”而这背后正是他自己“脱离了圈子”造成的后果。\n03\n离圈后的“变和不变”\n“离圈”造成的一个坏结果是“库存”增加。\n“服装资源应该在车间里，在生产线上而不是在仓库里，库存高是不正常的现象，一方面占用仓库面积，增加流通成本、财务成本，还有趋势滞后成本等等。”周成建说，库存积压和自己当初的“离圈”行为息息相关。\n具体而言，在过去的十年间，美邦在供应链管理和渠道拓展上都犯了一些错误。\n“为什么2008年之前我们季末售罄率可以做到97%？这其实和背后的产品研发、技术落地和以及商品供应链能力密不可分。”周成建说，供应链的两个失误决定间接导致了售罄率的降低。\n创立初期，美邦将“车间和门店”都外包，而品牌和设计能力都在自己手中，他们有自己的设计研发团队，可以根据市场需要来研发最时尚的服装，但在上市之后，一个副总向周成建提出建议“将设计和技术环节社会化”。\n简单的说就是将设计环节的两端都外包出去。\n“设计师画一个稿，画好交给生产工厂试生产，做好衣服大概需要半个月、一个月，拿回来我们审核看做的对不对。”周成建说，公司上市后，他混迹于其他圈子，对于服装圈没那么关注，这让他做了一些错误的判断。\n“当时那个副总建议说，这种外包可以节约几千万的成本，我听完之后觉得有道理，于是默许了这种改变。”\n而另一个供应链端的改变也在此时出现。\n“另一个副总建议将面辅料采购全部社会化。”在此之前，美邦的供应链相对封闭，他们会选择一些长期合作的供应商来采购，社会化之后成为面向全社会采购原料。\n“那个副总在中欧商学院读书后，做了一个相关的学术论文，学完之后就来和我说把供应链社会化，说这样可以节约一大批成本。”周成建说，虽然这些举措都是副总做出的建议，但问题还是出在自己身上。“因为我是授权者，管理者和支持者。”\n这些举措确实帮助美邦在短期内节约了成本，但另一方面也意味着美邦失去了供应链的快速响应能力，以及对产品质量的把控能力。\n“设计外包之后，增加了大量的时间成本，设计师的设计稿和生产厂商的成品来回邮寄修改，往往一季衣服花费了大量时间还没有能达到理想的设计感和品质感。”周成建说，那时候自己“离圈”并不关心这些细节，导致他们“来来回回折腾”，降低了设计生产效率。\n而在渠道方面，美邦却固守了一些陈旧的标准。\n“当时渠道负责人反复建议我对零售运营和渠道规划作出改变，但我却没有听从他的建议。”周成建说，该负责人反复向他强调，应该对美特斯邦威和ME&CITY的门店进行调整，比如ME&CITY不应该开大店，而应该去购物中心商圈开适度面积的店，同时美邦门店不应该基于上海南京路巨无霸店做标准，要找另外的店铺做标准复制。\n而这些建议他也都没有采纳。\n“回头看，过去十年市场上最大的变化是渠道变化和零售方式的变化。ME&CITY定位为新中产阶级服务，目标群体是都市白领阶层，而过去十年间都市白领去传统商业街的几率在降低，这部分人群更喜欢去购物中心购物，所以ME&CITY更应该去如万象城、龙湖天地、嘉里中心这样的购物中心设置门店，而不是继续呆在淮海路或者南京路。与此对应，美邦的门店是可以在传统商圈设店，但不应该以南京东路的旗舰店作为标准，这家店面积太大，可以作为旗舰店，但不能全国推广。”周成建说，在“离圈”期间，因为他不够了解市场行情导致“该听的没听，不该听的都听了。”\n周成建反思自己这两个错误决定的原因：“产品研发和供应链是属于后台管理，后台一旦不接触会忘掉什么是对，什么是错，所以在接到这些建议时我觉得自己无法判断对错，进而选择听从他们的建议；但零售和渠道属于前台，前台我日常看的多，接触的多，就算离圈了，还觉得自己在这个情境里，于是陷入经验陷阱，坚持自己的决定，不愿接受建议。”\n周成建承认，自己当时离圈后“脱离了行业内的分析，只是站在一个情绪去听建议。”而这最终导致了美邦走更多的弯路。\n04\n“邦购”和“有范儿”APP的反思\n当然，“离圈”并不全是坏事，从另一个角度看，站在更高圈层的周成建也看到了更大的机会，受益于“圈外”信息的交流，他曾在2010年和2014年在互联网行业进行过两次重大的尝试。\n2010年，也就是美邦最如日中天的时刻，周成建推出了美邦自己的电商平台“邦购网”。借由这个电商平台，消费者可以在实体店内扫码消费，也能实现线上购物和线下退换等多项功能。\n上线第一年，邦购网上美邦单品牌成交量3亿，这是一个很不错的数据，但令人遗憾的是，邦购网仅坚持了一年左右就黯然收场。\n周成建另一个更重大的尝试出现在4年后。2014年，美特斯邦威以5000万拿下《奇葩说》的总冠名；次年4月份，推出“有范”APP；随后，“有范”APP又相继拿下《奇葩说》第二季和第三季的冠名。\n有范是一个主打“潮流时尚搭配的体验平台”，用户可以通过该APP与专业造型师零距离沟通，在大量个性化品牌中挑选适合自己的风格，获得定制化专属建议，并实时下单，进行分享、互动。\n以今天的眼光看，有范就是一款“社交电商”APP，他具有了社交电商的所有属性，受益于奇葩说的引流，有范迎来了“开门红”——上线的第一天晚上就引来了50万用户，这些人上传了10万条自拍内容。\n但这款APP在市场上也未能走远，2017年8月“有范”APP宣布下线。\n周成建说，邦购和有范其实都抓住了窗口期，这从二者同期崛起的唯品会和小红书就可以得到验证，但是邦购和有范又都未能走远，最关键的原因还在于“自己根本就没搞懂”。\n“邦购和有范都是定位于我们自己的渠道，而未能扩大到平台属性。我们总想着让他们成为美邦的新渠道，而没有想过把他们做成一个可以涵盖更多品牌的大众平台。这就是外行人没看懂这个事情就盲目投入的结果。”周成建比喻说，无论南京东路、还是天猫、苏宁其实都是社会渠道，“商圈需要群体，这才是商圈。而自己将邦购和有范都定位成美邦自己的渠道，这就像是在美邦厂区开了一个美特斯邦威的专卖店一样，这个逻辑本身就是错的，不可能成功，但当时我没想明白。”\n他说，这件事给自己的经验是“从圈外作出的决定就要用圈外的方式来做事，不能再沿袭圈内的方法，不然一定失败。”\n05\n回归\n经历了近十年的波折后，周成建决定回归“裁缝”身份。\n“没有退路了，企业做的这么糟糕，除非我放弃，不然我就要想着把他再次做好。”从2018年后，周成建开始逐步回归，而他回归后的第一件事就是“纠错”。\n他重新梳理了美邦当前的渠道和供应链，正努力弥补当初的“错误决定。”\n“我们现在的关键问题是资源错位，我让团队重新思考如何做衣服、卖衣服？比如衣服怎么卖？如何将当前的资源匹配到相应的渠道中去。”\n随后美邦对线上线下做了全域渠道分类分析。\n“无论是线上传统的京东、天猫还是新近崛起的社交电商平台，以及线下的商圈、购物中心等等我们希望针对这些全域渠道做剖析和规划，找到我们想卖给谁？怎么卖的答案，将这些问题梳理清楚后在基于这种精准市场来做产品规划和供应链支持。”\n2015年，为了破圈，美邦推出了“五大风格”即休闲风NEWear、潮流范HYSTYL、都市轻商务Nōvachic、街头潮趣MTEE、森系ASELF，美邦希望这些多元的风格能满足更多的消费者。\n“这个策略是对的，但现在从单一化来看，他们单个无法满足市场需求。我们需要深入到这些风格中逐步的厘清他们消费群体以及消费地域，比如潮流系在东北就卖的很好，但我们在全国平均支配资源，这就是‘资源错位’。”\n当前，周成建正在将五种风格和渠道、区域市场做精准的匹配，“基于市场需求，再结合公司能力，我先聚焦某一个风格，再逐步落实，一个一个攻破。”\n除了渠道做精准匹配之外，供应链的管理也成为美邦自救的重点。\n他们收回了当初盲目外包的“技术研发”环节，重新梳理了供应链，实现了“从趋势到衣服的闭环路径。”\n“我们现在有自己的设计团队和样衣工厂，样衣的设计、生产都在我们内部完成，这极大的提高了效率，而且增加了服饰设计、质量的可控性，我们刚刚做完ME&CITY2021年秋的研发，公司内部对这季产品都非常满意。”\n在渠道方面，周成建终于改变了他此前坚持的标准，重新梳理了渠道标准，从“落位”到面积进行了重新调整。\n“另外也对不同渠道精准匹配产品做梳理，整个营运工作更精细、更标准化，更可复制化，这样加盟商也有了信心。”\n“通过去年下半年的梳理，很多若干年前和合作伙伴重新回来加盟合作，我们今年（2021年）第一季度加盟数字已经达到去年一年的规模，一季度已经确定开发店铺的面积已经大于去年一年的开发面积。”\n“我希望美邦重新找回自己的核心竞争力，让公司上下重新回归去做衣服和卖衣服的事业上，现在我觉得我们在策略上、路径上已经非常清楚了，但还没有完全做到这种核心优势，现在刚踏上回归的路程。”\n从十几岁只身闯温州，到上市暴富成为服装圈首富，再到今天回归“裁缝”初衷，周成建确实走了一条“不寻常的道路”。\n“人了解自己是非常难的，管理自己更难，通过反复的折腾我们总要成长成熟，总会比以前更加了解自己。我折腾过了，也经历过了，如果还有机会重新回归，这本身就是一种福报……今天，如果人们还能给我贴上‘裁缝’的标签，我就满足了。”背靠巨大的玻璃窗，周成建捧着茶杯说。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"002269":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":4634,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0}],"hots":[{"id":194585404,"gmtCreate":1621386979608,"gmtModify":1704356765374,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"authorIdStr":"3583575014073252","idStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"title":"","htmlText":"66666","listText":"66666","text":"66666","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":2,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/194585404","repostId":"1101398960","repostType":4,"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":5596,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":158025678,"gmtCreate":1625115129294,"gmtModify":1703736469341,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"authorIdStr":"3583575014073252","idStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"title":"","htmlText":"8888","listText":"8888","text":"8888","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":1,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/158025678","repostId":"1144302321","repostType":4,"repost":{"id":"1144302321","kind":"news","pubTimestamp":1625109902,"share":"https://ttm.financial/m/news/1144302321?lang=en_US&edition=fundamental","pubTime":"2021-07-01 11:25","market":"sh","language":"zh","title":"Brokerages' top stocks for July have been released! Which stocks gained the most attention?","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1144302321","media":"第一财经","summary":"机构指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n\n6月A股市场呈现窄幅震荡走势，科技股热点贯穿全月，7月如何寻找机会？截至6月30日，有14","content":"<p><div>Analysts point out that the index will continue to fluctuate in July. As the interim report rally unfolds, performance is king, and high-growth growth is the least resistance direction. For thematic opportunities, focus on peak season clues. The A-share market fluctuated narrowly in June, with technology stocks remaining hot throughout the month. How to find opportunities in July? As of June 30, 14 securities firms had released their monthly investment portfolios for July, covering multiple sectors including non-bank financial institutions, electrical engineering, light industry, machinery, chemicals, and home appliances. Which stocks gained the most attention? According to incomplete statistics, among the \"top stocks\" lists of various securities firms, Eastmoney, known as the \"Mao of securities firms,\" remains the one with the most institutional recommendations, with a total of...</p><p><a href=\"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html\">Web page link</a></div></p>","source":"dyvj","collect":0,"html":"<!DOCTYPE html>\n<html>\n<head>\n<meta http-equiv=\"Content-Type\" content=\"text/html; charset=utf-8\" />\n<meta name=\"viewport\" content=\"width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0,user-scalable=no\"/>\n<meta name=\"format-detection\" content=\"telephone=no,email=no,address=no\" />\n<title>Brokerages' top stocks for July have been released! Which stocks gained the most attention?</title>\n<style type=\"text/css\">\na,abbr,acronym,address,applet,article,aside,audio,b,big,blockquote,body,canvas,caption,center,cite,code,dd,del,details,dfn,div,dl,dt,\nem,embed,fieldset,figcaption,figure,footer,form,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,header,hgroup,html,i,iframe,img,ins,kbd,label,legend,li,mark,menu,nav,\nobject,ol,output,p,pre,q,ruby,s,samp,section,small,span,strike,strong,sub,summary,sup,table,tbody,td,tfoot,th,thead,time,tr,tt,u,ul,var,video{ font:inherit;margin:0;padding:0;vertical-align:baseline;border:0 }\nbody{ font-size:16px; line-height:1.5; color:#999; background:transparent; }\n.wrapper{ overflow:hidden;word-break:break-all;padding:10px; }\nh1,h2{ font-weight:normal; line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:.6em; }\nh3,h4,h5,h6{ line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:1em; }\nh1{ font-size:24px; }\nh2{ font-size:20px; }\nh3{ font-size:18px; }\nh4{ font-size:16px; }\nh5{ font-size:14px; }\nh6{ font-size:12px; }\np,ul,ol,blockquote,dl,table{ margin:1.2em 0; }\nul,ol{ margin-left:2em; }\nul{ list-style:disc; }\nol{ list-style:decimal; }\nli,li p{ margin:10px 0;}\nimg{ max-width:100%;display:block;margin:0 auto 1em; }\nblockquote{ color:#B5B2B1; border-left:3px solid #aaa; padding:1em; }\nstrong,b{font-weight:bold;}\nem,i{font-style:italic;}\ntable{ width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;border-spacing:1px;margin:1em 0;font-size:.9em; }\nth,td{ padding:5px;text-align:left;border:1px solid #aaa; }\nth{ font-weight:bold;background:#5d5d5d; }\n.symbol-link{font-weight:bold;}\n/* header{ border-bottom:1px solid #494756; } */\n.title{ margin:0 0 8px;line-height:1.3;color:#ddd; }\n.meta {color:#5e5c6d;font-size:13px;margin:0 0 .5em; }\na{text-decoration:none; color:#2a4b87;}\n.meta .head { display: inline-block; overflow: hidden}\n.head .h-thumb { width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%; float: left;}\n.head .h-content { margin: 0; padding: 0 0 0 9px; float: left;}\n.head .h-name {font-size: 13px; color: #eee; margin: 0;}\n.head .h-time {font-size: 12.5px; color: #7E829C; margin: 0;}\n.small {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.9); -webkit-transform: scale(0.9); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.smaller {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.8); -webkit-transform: scale(0.8); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.bt-text {font-size: 12px;margin: 1.5em 0 0 0}\n.bt-text p {margin: 0}\n</style>\n</head>\n<body>\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<header>\n<h2 class=\"title\">\nBrokerages' top stocks for July have been released! Which stocks gained the most attention?\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<p class=\"head\">\n<strong class=\"h-name small\">第一财经</strong><span class=\"h-time small\">2021-07-01 11:25</span>\n</p>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p><div>Analysts point out that the index will continue to fluctuate in July. As the interim report rally unfolds, performance is king, and high-growth growth is the least resistance direction. For thematic opportunities, focus on peak season clues. The A-share market fluctuated narrowly in June, with technology stocks remaining hot throughout the month. How to find opportunities in July? As of June 30, 14 securities firms had released their monthly investment portfolios for July, covering multiple sectors including non-bank financial institutions, electrical engineering, light industry, machinery, chemicals, and home appliances. Which stocks gained the most attention? According to incomplete statistics, among the \"top stocks\" lists of various securities firms, Eastmoney, known as the \"Mao of securities firms,\" remains the one with the most institutional recommendations, with a total of...</p><p><a href=\"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html\">Web page link</a></div></p>\n<div class=\"bt-text\">\n\n\n<p> source：<a href=\"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html\">第一财经</a></p>\n\n\n</div>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/4a10424fe3b1f29e8d28fdc0dc474e86","relate_stocks":{"399001":"深证成指","399006":"创业板指","000001.SH":"上证指数"},"source_url":"https://www.yicai.com/news/101097403.html","is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1144302321","content_text":"机构指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n\n6月A股市场呈现窄幅震荡走势，科技股热点贯穿全月，7月如何寻找机会？截至6月30日，有14家券商公布了7月月度投资组合，涉及非银、电气、轻工、机械、化工、家电等多个领域。\n\n哪些个股收获点名最多？\n据不完全统计，在各家券商的“金股”名单中，获机构推荐次数最多的依旧是“券商茅”东方财富，共获得5家券商的推荐，该股6月月内累计涨3.11%，最新收盘价为32.79元。\n此外，药明康德获得国泰君安、兴业证券、浙商证券3家券商的推荐。该股6月内涨幅明显，达12.62%，最新收盘价为156.59元。\n从涨跌幅来看，获两家及以上券商推荐的个股中，港股爱帝宫涨幅最大，该股6月内大涨65.75%，最新收盘价为1.21港元；跌幅最大的是泸州老窖，6月内跌超14%，报235.94元。\n\n后市怎么走？\n展望后市，券商普遍表示，7月股市将持续震荡，而中报行情将成为市场亮点。\n华金证券指出，7月份扰动增加，震荡恐将加剧，但在海内外流动性预期暂时好转背景下，结构性行情有望延续。\n浙商证券也指出，7月指数将持续震荡，随着中报行情展开，业绩为王，高景气成长是最小阻力方向，主题机会关注旺季线索。\n银河证券认为，7月是中报及中报预告披露期，业绩高增长主导结构性机会。经济金融环境暂维持相对利好权益资产，但是A股市场已反弹至高位，增量资金进场缓慢，后续需谨慎追涨，适当降低预期。\n西南证券也认为，经过前期的快速上涨，同时随着中报陆陆续续公布，中报行情有望迎来业绩兑现期，需要适当转向防御，以巩固前期的上涨成果。\n哪些行业最受青睐？\n配置方向上，券商依旧看好顺周期板块未来行情，计算机、医药、新能源等成长板块也受到券商关注，此外，关注中报业绩高增长主线。\n开源证券研报指出，周期股的重定价时刻正在来临，当投资者认识到供给约束的持续性与通胀并非短期，那么在业绩持续验证下，周期股的长期盈利能力将在全市场内显得极具性价比。同时，环境的变化也正在扭转高杠杆经营公司长期的不利地位。开始重新把前期回调较多，受到市场约束较多的成长型周期股纳入到推荐中。\n兴业证券研报称，成长仍是主旋律但是要立足性价比，中报行情可布局绩优股。成长板块围绕4条主线，找长期性价比合适的机会：\n\n 1、AIoT（计算机、通信、电子）；\n\n\n 2、医药（医疗器械、医疗服务）；\n\n\n 3、新能源链条（新能源材料、锂电设备、汽车、智能驾驶）；\n\n\n 4、高端制造设备（半导体设备、军工）。\n\n同时，兴业证券强调，中报行情不容忽视，如机械、军工、化工、交运等行业的绩优股。\n银河证券也认为，景气度向上、中报业绩高增长是主线：关注需求强劲的上游周期品；医疗美容、化妆品、智能家电等消费升级主题；产业数字化、碳中和等国家战略方向。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"399001":0.9,"399006":0.9,"000001.SH":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":4644,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":128111270,"gmtCreate":1624505564490,"gmtModify":1703838672344,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"authorIdStr":"3583575014073252","idStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"title":"","htmlText":"nnnnn","listText":"nnnnn","text":"nnnnn","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":0,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/128111270","repostId":"1171242956","repostType":4,"repost":{"id":"1171242956","kind":"news","weMediaInfo":{"introduction":"为用户提供金融资讯、行情、数据，旨在帮助投资者理解世界，做投资决策。","home_visible":1,"media_name":"老虎资讯综合","id":"102","head_image":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/8274c5b9d4c2852bfb1c4d6ce16c68ba"},"pubTimestamp":1624497777,"share":"https://ttm.financial/m/news/1171242956?lang=en_US&edition=fundamental","pubTime":"2021-06-24 09:22","market":"sh","language":"zh","title":"Opening: The Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, with New Oriental rising over 5%.","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1171242956","media":"老虎资讯综合","summary":"6月24日讯，港股三大指数高开，恒指涨0.17%报28865点，国指涨0.14%报10688点，恒生科技指数涨0.32%报8045点。盘面上，光伏股强势，福莱特玻璃高开5%，信义玻璃、信义光能等均上涨","content":"<p>June 24 - Hong Kong's three major stock indices opened higher, with the Hang Seng Index rising 0.17% to 28,865 points, the Hang Seng Index rising 0.14% to 10,688 points, and the Hang Seng Tech Index rising 0.32% to 8,045 points.<img src=\"https://static.tigerbbs.com/bf14c488539ead32bc20f4d3e1881261\" tg-width=\"840\" tg-height=\"470\">Photovoltaic stocks performed strongly on the market.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/06865\">Flat Glass</a>Opening 5% higher,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00868\">Xinyi Glass</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00968\">Xinyi Light Energy</a>All rose; The education and pharmaceutical sectors led the gains, with New Oriental rising over 5%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/TSLA\">Tesla</a>Concept stocks, beer stocks, property management stocks, and automobile stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/601598\">Sinotrans</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01308\">SITC International</a>All opened higher; Major technology stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BABA\">Alibaba</a>It rose more than 1%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BIDU\">Baidu</a>Meituan<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00700\">Tencent</a>A slight increase; Sporting goods stocks were mixed, with Anta open low exceeding 1% and hitting a record high yesterday; Airline stocks and gambling stocks fell significantly.</p><p><a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01478\">Q Ti Technology</a>The stock rose nearly 3% after spinning off Kunshanqiu Titanium Microelectronics and submitting a listing application to the Shenzhen Stock Exchange's ChiNext board.</p>","collect":0,"html":"<!DOCTYPE html>\n<html>\n<head>\n<meta http-equiv=\"Content-Type\" content=\"text/html; charset=utf-8\" />\n<meta name=\"viewport\" content=\"width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0,user-scalable=no\"/>\n<meta name=\"format-detection\" content=\"telephone=no,email=no,address=no\" />\n<title>Opening: The Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, with New Oriental rising over 5%.</title>\n<style type=\"text/css\">\na,abbr,acronym,address,applet,article,aside,audio,b,big,blockquote,body,canvas,caption,center,cite,code,dd,del,details,dfn,div,dl,dt,\nem,embed,fieldset,figcaption,figure,footer,form,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,header,hgroup,html,i,iframe,img,ins,kbd,label,legend,li,mark,menu,nav,\nobject,ol,output,p,pre,q,ruby,s,samp,section,small,span,strike,strong,sub,summary,sup,table,tbody,td,tfoot,th,thead,time,tr,tt,u,ul,var,video{ font:inherit;margin:0;padding:0;vertical-align:baseline;border:0 }\nbody{ font-size:16px; line-height:1.5; color:#999; background:transparent; }\n.wrapper{ overflow:hidden;word-break:break-all;padding:10px; }\nh1,h2{ font-weight:normal; line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:.6em; }\nh3,h4,h5,h6{ line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:1em; }\nh1{ font-size:24px; }\nh2{ font-size:20px; }\nh3{ font-size:18px; }\nh4{ font-size:16px; }\nh5{ font-size:14px; }\nh6{ font-size:12px; }\np,ul,ol,blockquote,dl,table{ margin:1.2em 0; }\nul,ol{ margin-left:2em; }\nul{ list-style:disc; }\nol{ list-style:decimal; }\nli,li p{ margin:10px 0;}\nimg{ max-width:100%;display:block;margin:0 auto 1em; }\nblockquote{ color:#B5B2B1; border-left:3px solid #aaa; padding:1em; }\nstrong,b{font-weight:bold;}\nem,i{font-style:italic;}\ntable{ width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;border-spacing:1px;margin:1em 0;font-size:.9em; }\nth,td{ padding:5px;text-align:left;border:1px solid #aaa; }\nth{ font-weight:bold;background:#5d5d5d; }\n.symbol-link{font-weight:bold;}\n/* header{ border-bottom:1px solid #494756; } */\n.title{ margin:0 0 8px;line-height:1.3;color:#ddd; }\n.meta {color:#5e5c6d;font-size:13px;margin:0 0 .5em; }\na{text-decoration:none; color:#2a4b87;}\n.meta .head { display: inline-block; overflow: hidden}\n.head .h-thumb { width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%; float: left;}\n.head .h-content { margin: 0; padding: 0 0 0 9px; float: left;}\n.head .h-name {font-size: 13px; color: #eee; margin: 0;}\n.head .h-time {font-size: 12.5px; color: #7E829C; margin: 0;}\n.small {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.9); -webkit-transform: scale(0.9); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.smaller {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.8); -webkit-transform: scale(0.8); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.bt-text {font-size: 12px;margin: 1.5em 0 0 0}\n.bt-text p {margin: 0}\n</style>\n</head>\n<body>\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<header>\n<h2 class=\"title\">\nOpening: The Hang Seng Index opened 0.17% higher, with New Oriental rising over 5%.\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<a class=\"head\" href=\"https://laohu8.com/wemedia/102\">\n\n<div class=\"h-thumb\" style=\"background-image:url(https://static.tigerbbs.com/8274c5b9d4c2852bfb1c4d6ce16c68ba);background-size:cover;\"></div>\n\n<div class=\"h-content\">\n<p class=\"h-name\">老虎资讯综合 </p>\n<p class=\"h-time smaller\">2021-06-24 09:22</p>\n</div>\n</a>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p>June 24 - Hong Kong's three major stock indices opened higher, with the Hang Seng Index rising 0.17% to 28,865 points, the Hang Seng Index rising 0.14% to 10,688 points, and the Hang Seng Tech Index rising 0.32% to 8,045 points.<img src=\"https://static.tigerbbs.com/bf14c488539ead32bc20f4d3e1881261\" tg-width=\"840\" tg-height=\"470\">Photovoltaic stocks performed strongly on the market.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/06865\">Flat Glass</a>Opening 5% higher,<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00868\">Xinyi Glass</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00968\">Xinyi Light Energy</a>All rose; The education and pharmaceutical sectors led the gains, with New Oriental rising over 5%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/TSLA\">Tesla</a>Concept stocks, beer stocks, property management stocks, and automobile stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/601598\">Sinotrans</a>、<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01308\">SITC International</a>All opened higher; Major technology stocks generally rose.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BABA\">Alibaba</a>It rose more than 1%.<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/BIDU\">Baidu</a>Meituan<a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/00700\">Tencent</a>A slight increase; Sporting goods stocks were mixed, with Anta open low exceeding 1% and hitting a record high yesterday; Airline stocks and gambling stocks fell significantly.</p><p><a href=\"https://laohu8.com/S/01478\">Q Ti Technology</a>The stock rose nearly 3% after spinning off Kunshanqiu Titanium Microelectronics and submitting a listing application to the Shenzhen Stock Exchange's ChiNext board.</p>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/5b3b5e72649367d0aafd9bcbbca9bcd1","relate_stocks":{"159938":"医药","513600":"恒生指数ETF南方","HSI":"恒生指数","02833":"恒指ETF","09939":"开拓药业-B"},"is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1171242956","content_text":"6月24日讯，港股三大指数高开，恒指涨0.17%报28865点，国指涨0.14%报10688点，恒生科技指数涨0.32%报8045点。盘面上，光伏股强势，福莱特玻璃高开5%，信义玻璃、信义光能等均上涨；教育、医药板块涨幅居前，新东方涨超5%，特斯拉概念股、啤酒股、物管股、汽车股普遍上扬，中国外运、海丰国际等皆高开；大型科技股普涨，阿里巴巴涨超1%，百度、美团、腾讯小幅上涨；体育用品股涨跌不一，安踏低开逾1%，昨日曾创历史新高；航空股、濠赌股走低明显。\n丘钛科技涨近3%，分拆昆山丘钛微电子向深交所创业板提交上市申请。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"159938":0.9,"513600":0.9,"MCHmain":0.9,"09939":0.9,"HSImain":0.9,"MHImain":0.9,"02833":0.9,"HHImain":0.9,"HSI":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":4887,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0},{"id":192905670,"gmtCreate":1621134464990,"gmtModify":1704353196901,"author":{"id":"3583575014073252","authorId":"3583575014073252","name":"恩嗯","avatar":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/a6e63e165d75d83d76b2bddad2635952","crmLevel":2,"crmLevelSwitch":0,"followedFlag":false,"authorIdStr":"3583575014073252","idStr":"3583575014073252"},"themes":[],"title":"","htmlText":"666666","listText":"666666","text":"666666","images":[],"top":1,"highlighted":1,"essential":1,"paper":1,"likeSize":0,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"link":"https://ttm.financial/post/192905670","repostId":"1144988792","repostType":4,"repost":{"id":"1144988792","kind":"news","pubTimestamp":1621047045,"share":"https://ttm.financial/m/news/1144988792?lang=en_US&edition=fundamental","pubTime":"2021-05-15 10:50","market":"sh","language":"zh","title":"Metersbonwe Chairman Zhou Chengjian: I once forgot I was a \"tailor\"","url":"https://stock-news.laohu8.com/highlight/detail?id=1144988792","media":"商业江湖","summary":"2008年美特斯邦威在深交所挂牌上市，在上市仪式上，美邦创始人周成建向深交所赠送了一台镀金小缝纫机，他说：“我最早是一个村庄的裁缝，现在有幸成为中国的裁缝，希望以后还能成为全球的裁缝。”\n此后，“中国","content":"<p>In 2008, Metersbonwe was listed on the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. At the listing ceremony, Zhou Chengjian, founder of Metersbonwe, presented the Shenzhen Stock Exchange with a small gold-plated sewing machine. He said, \"I started as a tailor in a village. Now I am fortunate to become a tailor in China. I hope to become a tailor in the world in the future.\"</p><p>Since then, \"Chinese tailor\" has become Zhou Chengjian's most important label, and he has repeated this phrase on many occasions.</p><p>But 13 years later, Zhou Chengjian began to reflect on his \"inconsistency between words and deeds\".</p><p>On January 28, 2021, sitting in the office of Metersbonwe's headquarters in Kangqiao, Shanghai, Zhou Chengjian told Business World, \"On the surface, I have always emphasized that I am a 'Chinese tailor,' but in reality, in the past few years, I have left the apparel industry and rarely understand the changes in the industry. It is this 'leaving the industry' behavior that has led Metersbonwe to its current predicament.\"</p><p>Ten years ago, Metersbonwe had impressive financial reports.</p><p>In 2008, Metersbonwe's net profit reached 588 million yuan, and they peaked in 2011, when Metersbonwe opened more than 5,000 chain stores nationwide, achieving revenue of 9.945 billion yuan and net profit of 1.206 billion yuan.</p><p>“Back then, we were the clothing company with the strongest supply chain capabilities in China. Our quarter-end sold-out rate could reach 95-97%, and we could even replenish orders in the middle of the quarter by about 45%. Now, however, our quarter-end sold-out rate is only 50-60%,” Zhou Chengjian said.</p><p>Looking back, 2008 was the turning point in Zhou Chengjian's \"tailoring career.\" Before that, he \"focused all his energy on the fashion industry, often traveling to Milan and Paris to exchange clothing designs with local designers.\" However, after going public, he \"went from a farmer to the owner of a listed company, and had more opportunities to work in different circles. He was overconfident and went astray.\"</p><p>“Some people never forget themselves no matter how they get into social circles, but I forgot my last name as I got into it.”</p><p>“I use ‘tailor’ as a slogan every day, but in essence I forget about tailors. My behavior is not based on tailors, which has caused today’s trouble. Now I emphasize ‘awakening and returning’ in the company in the hope of starting with myself, awakening my obsession with ‘making clothes’ and returning to the clothing industry.”</p><p>From starting a business in a hurry, to losing himself, and then to waking up and returning, Zhou Chengjian reviewed his entrepreneurial history to Business Jianghu in an interview lasting more than an hour, and said that he now knows his last name.</p><p>\"I have the surname 'Tailor',\" he said.</p><p><b>01</b></p><p><b>The Great Leap Forward of \"Half-Sleeve\"</b></p><p>Initially, Zhou Chengjian was indeed a tailor.</p><p>When he was 14 years old, he learned to make clothes with his relatives. Later, he came to Wenzhou to work as a garment manufacturer, mainly supplying the Miaoguosi wholesaler.</p><p>“When doing OEM manufacturing, we usually take orders in the afternoon and deliver the goods at noon the next day. The longest time is no more than 72 hours because customers don’t wait that long,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he was extremely busy, taking jobs during the day and cutting at night. When he was tired, he would put a blanket on the cutting board and sleep.</p><p>“Back then, there was a popular joke in our circle: ‘Be a boss by day and sleep on the floor at night,’” he said.</p><p>In his busy schedule, Zhou Chengjian made a mistake. One day while cutting, he drew the wrong size and cut a stack of fabric by more than ten centimeters, resulting in the sleeves of the suits being shorter. He was then \"severely criticized\" by the client, who demanded that he pay over 100,000 yuan in compensation.</p><p>Left with no other option, Zhou Chengjian went to the market to buy another type of fabric to patch together the sleeves. To cover up the mistake, he changed the straight sleeves of his suit to color-matched jacket sleeves and then asked the customer to \"try selling it. If you can sell it, sell it. If you can't sell it, I'll pay for any losses myself.\"</p><p>Unexpectedly, these patchwork suits were very popular in the market and quickly sold out, with many people even coming to \"chase orders\".</p><p>Thus, \"patchwork casual suits\" emerged, becoming a new clothing category.</p><p>“I used to think I was just making clothes for others, but after this incident, I realized that I could also create clothes. After that, I started to put more effort into making clothes. Other companies would buy a piece of clothing and imitate it by cutting it, while I would change some details, such as changing the sleeves or pockets, so that the clothes would look different and my business would be better than others’,” Zhou Chengjian said. “The ‘half-sleeve incident’ was a breakthrough in my career.”</p><p>Through this success, Zhou Chengjian also made a name for himself. He then opened his own clothing stall in Miaoguo Temple, forming a \"front store, back factory\" business model, taking orders during the day and returning to the factory for cutting and processing at night. Under this model, he did all the procurement, design, sewing, and sales himself. He subsequently opened a garment factory in Wenzhou with more than 500 employees, becoming one of the most experienced practitioners in the industry.</p><p>Years later, Zhou Chengjian, who was already the chairman of Metersbonwe, visited partner companies. When factory owners boasted to him about their company's \"strong production capacity,\" Zhou Chengjian would smile and say, \"At least 30% of the employees in your workshop are novices. I can tell their level of proficiency just by listening to the sound of them stepping on the sewing machine.\"</p><p>At that time, he was indeed a genuine \"Wenzhou tailor\".</p><p><b>02</b></p><p><b>Shell companies and borrowed nets for fishing</b></p><p>In April 1995, Zhou Chengjian opened the first Metersbonwe store in Wenzhou. In order to attract customers, he paved the entire Wuma Street in Wenzhou with a red carpet, leading directly to the Metersbonwe store.</p><p>The name Metersbonwe is said to originate from ancient Chinese, meaning \"beautiful and unique here, showcasing the prestige of our country\".</p><p>“I left the wholesale market not because I was already doing very well there, but because I felt that continuing like this was not a long-term solution,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, the Wenzhou clothing market was “unregulated,” with no fixed retail price for clothing and everyone haggling over prices. He felt that this model needed to be changed.</p><p>\"I wanted to be a brand with clearly marked prices and no haggling.\" That's how Metersbonwe was born.</p><p>However, Metersbonwe's innovation in apparel retail doesn't stop there. Due to insufficient funds in the early stages, Zhou Chengjian figured out a \"cost-effective but fast\" development model. He outsourced the most important part of traditional apparel companies—manufacturing and production—while only being responsible for design and brand marketing. At the same time, he attracted franchisees on a large scale. This not only reduced the burden on the company, but also quickly seized the market.</p><p>“I wanted to make a full range of clothing, but my own factory only made woven jackets at the time, and the factory was too busy. So I could only find a full-category supply chain in society to support it. At the same time, I didn’t want to spend so much money on opening a store, so I invited customers who used to do wholesale in wholesale markets to become my franchisees,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he often went to Guangdong to find cooperative suppliers to broaden his product categories.</p><p>\"Simply put, I've essentially outsourced the production workshop and stores. Apart from these two aspects, everything else is our own, such as branding, plate making, and design,\" Zhou Chengjian said. He added that this model sparked a lot of skepticism in its early stages.</p><p>“We either produced it ourselves, or we produced it ourselves and then opened our own specialty stores to sell it. At that time, this model was called the real economy. So when Metersbonwe appeared, some people questioned whether I was ‘not doing my job properly’.”</p><p>Zhou Chengjian recalled that around 1996, about a year after Metersbonwe's establishment, a colleague from the wholesale market accompanied the \"China Garment Association\" to Metersbonwe for research. After the visit, he said to Zhou Chengjian, \"If your company is still alive in a year, I will cut off your head and give it to you.\"</p><p>There is no doubt that every innovation is mixed with huge doubts.</p><p>Looking back today, Metersbonwe established an excellent business model at the time—like major apparel brands such as Nike and Adidas, they used an asset-light model to quickly mobilize social forces, thereby unlocking a huge market share.</p><p>“I didn’t do it after I understood the theory, but after I did it, I verified the correctness of the model through these theories. Looking back, I wasn’t the first in the world to adopt this model. Many European and American brands are global OEMs, and this model has already existed, but I didn’t know about it at the time,” Zhou Chengjian said. He added that he was not an innovator in the world, but in Zhejiang at the time, he was the “first person.”</p><p>Around 1998, Zhang Dejiang, then Secretary of the Zhejiang Provincial Party Committee, visited Wenzhou for research. After listening to Zhou Chengjian's speech, Secretary Zhang said, \"Xiao Zhou, your model is good. You're using a chicken to lay eggs and a net to catch fish.\"</p><p>Subsequently, the Party Secretary wrote a long passage in Metersbonwe's materials, hoping that the national correspondent stations stationed in Zhejiang Province would vigorously promote it and encourage everyone to study Metersbonwe and learn from its model.</p><p>Overnight, Zhou Chengjian became a representative of \"borrowing nets to fish\".</p><p>After a brief period of controversy, the \"asset-light\" model quickly showed its advantages.</p><p>From its founding in 1995 to its IPO in 2008, Metersbonwe created a legend of rapid rise in just 13 years.</p><p>“When we went public, Metersbonwe had retail sales of over 5 billion yuan and nearly a thousand stores, surpassing many companies that were established earlier than us. In terms of scale, influence, professional capabilities and other data, we were number one in the industry. In fact, the second and third places combined may only be two-thirds of ours.”</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that even today, he still feels that this model has no obvious flaws, and \"Metersbonwe's predicament lies in its failure to adhere to the key points of this model, such as product development and supply chain management.\" Behind this is the consequence of his own \"breaking away from the circle.\"</p><p><b>03</b></p><p><b>The \"changes and constants\" after leaving the industry</b></p><p>One bad consequence of \"leaving the circle\" is an increase in \"inventory\".</p><p>“Garment resources should be in the workshop, on the production line, not in the warehouse. High inventory is an abnormal phenomenon. On the one hand, it occupies warehouse space, increases circulation costs, financial costs, and trend lag costs, etc.,” Zhou Chengjian said. He added that the inventory backlog is closely related to his initial behavior of “leaving the industry.”</p><p>Specifically, over the past decade, Metersbonwe has made some mistakes in supply chain management and channel expansion.</p><p>\"Why were we able to achieve a 97% quarter-end sold-out rate before 2008? This is actually closely related to the underlying product development, technology implementation, and product supply chain capabilities,\" said Zhou Chengjian. He added that two mistakes in the supply chain indirectly led to the decrease in the sold-out rate.</p><p>In its early days, Metersbonwe outsourced its \"workshops and stores,\" while keeping its brand and design capabilities in its own hands. They had their own design and R&D teams that could develop the most fashionable clothing according to market needs. However, after going public, a vice president suggested to Zhou Chengjian to \"socialize the design and technology processes.\"</p><p>Simply put, it means outsourcing both ends of the design process.</p><p>“The designer draws a sketch, then sends it to the production factory for trial production. It takes about half a month to a month to make the clothes, and then we review them to see if they are correct,” Zhou Chengjian said. After the company went public, he moved into other circles and didn’t pay much attention to the clothing industry, which led him to make some wrong judgments.</p><p>\"The vice president at the time suggested that this kind of outsourcing could save tens of millions of yuan in costs. After listening to it, I thought it made sense, so I tacitly approved the change.\"</p><p>Another change in the supply chain also occurred at this time.</p><p>\"Another vice president suggested that all fabric and accessory procurement be socialized.\" Prior to this, Metersbonwe's supply chain was relatively closed, and they would choose some long-term cooperative suppliers for procurement. After socialization, they would become raw material procurement for the whole society.</p><p>“After studying at CEIBS, that vice president wrote a related academic paper. After finishing his studies, he came to me and talked about socializing the supply chain, saying that this could save a lot of costs,” Zhou Chengjian said. Although these measures were all suggestions made by the vice president, the problem still lay with him. \"Because I am the authorizer, the manager, and the supporter.\"</p><p>These measures did help Metersbonwe save costs in the short term, but on the other hand, they also meant that Metersbonwe lost its ability to respond quickly in the supply chain and its ability to control product quality.</p><p>“After design outsourcing, there was a significant increase in time costs. The designers’ design drafts and the manufacturers’ finished products were mailed and modified back and forth. Often, a lot of time was spent on a season’s clothes before they could achieve the ideal design and quality,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he was “out of the industry” and did not care about these details, which led to them “going back and forth” and reduced design and production efficiency.</p><p>However, in terms of distribution channels, Metersbonwe has stuck to some outdated standards.</p><p>“At the time, the channel manager repeatedly suggested that I make changes to my retail operations and channel planning, but I did not listen to his suggestions,” Zhou Chengjian said. The manager repeatedly emphasized to him that adjustments should be made to Metersbonwe and ME&CITY stores. For example, ME&CITY should not open large stores, but should open stores of appropriate size in shopping mall districts. At the same time, Metersbonwe stores should not be based on the standard of the giant store on Nanjing Road in Shanghai, but should find other stores to copy the standard.</p><p>He did not adopt any of these suggestions.</p><p>\"Looking back, the biggest change in the market over the past decade has been the change in channels and retail methods. ME&CITY is positioned to serve the new middle class, targeting urban white-collar workers. Over the past decade, the likelihood of urban white-collar workers going to traditional commercial streets has decreased, and this group prefers to shop in shopping malls. Therefore, ME&CITY should set up stores in shopping malls such as MixC, Longfor World, and Kerry Centre, rather than continuing to stay on Huaihai Road or Nanjing Road.\" Correspondingly, Metersbonwe can set up stores in traditional business districts, but the flagship store on Nanjing East Road should not be used as the standard. This store is too large and can be used as a flagship store, but it cannot be promoted nationwide. Zhou Chengjian said that during his time away from the industry, he didn't understand the market conditions enough, which led to him \"not listening to what he should have heard, and listening to what he shouldn't have heard.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian reflected on the reasons for his two wrong decisions: \"Product development and supply chain belong to back-end management. Once the back-end staff is not involved, they will forget what is right and what is wrong. So when I received these suggestions, I felt that I could not judge right and wrong, so I chose to listen to their suggestions. But retail and channels belong to the front-end staff. I see a lot and have a lot of contact with the front-end staff on a daily basis. Even after leaving the industry, I still feel that I am in this situation, so I fall into the experience trap, insist on my own decisions, and am unwilling to accept suggestions.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian admitted that after leaving the industry, he \"detached himself from industry analysis and just listened to advice from an emotional perspective.\" This ultimately led Metersbonwe to take more detours.</p><p><b>04</b></p><p><b>Reflections on the \"Banggou\" and \"Youfanr\" apps</b></p><p>Of course, \"leaving the circle\" is not all a bad thing. From another perspective, Zhou Chengjian, who stands in a higher circle, also saw greater opportunities. Benefiting from the exchange of information \"outside the circle\", he made two major attempts in the Internet industry in 2010 and 2014.</p><p>In 2010, at Metersbonwe's peak, Zhou Chengjian launched Metersbonwe's own e-commerce platform, \"Banggo.com\". Through this e-commerce platform, consumers can scan QR codes to make purchases in physical stores, as well as enjoy multiple functions such as online shopping and offline returns and exchanges.</p><p>In its first year online, Banggo.com achieved 300 million yuan in transactions for the Metersbonwe brand, which is a very good figure. However, it is regrettable that Banggo.com only lasted about a year before ending in disappointment.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian's other, more significant attempt came four years later. In 2014, Metersbonwe acquired the title sponsorship of \"Qipa Talk\" for 50 million yuan; In April of the following year, the \"Youfan\" APP was launched; Subsequently, the \"Youfan\" APP won the title sponsorship for the second and third seasons of \"Qipa Talk\".</p><p>Youfan is an experience platform that focuses on \"trendy and fashionable matching\". Users can communicate with professional stylists at close range through the APP, choose a style that suits them from a large number of personalized brands, get customized and exclusive suggestions, and place orders in real time to share and interact.</p><p>From today's perspective, Youfan is a \"social e-commerce\" APP that has all the attributes of social e-commerce. Benefiting from the traffic generation of Qipa Talk, Youfan ushered in a \"good start\" - it attracted 500,000 users on the first night of its launch, who uploaded 100,000 selfies.</p><p>However, the APP failed to go far in the market, and in August 2017, the \"Youfan\" APP announced its discontinuation.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that both Banggou and Youfan seized the window of opportunity, as can be seen from the rise of Vipshop and Xiaohongshu at the same time. However, neither Banggou nor Youfan went far, and the most crucial reason is that \"they simply didn't understand it.\"</p><p>“Banggou and Youfan were both positioned as our own channels, failing to expand into platform attributes. We always thought about making them new channels for Metersbonwe, rather than making them a mass-market platform that could encompass more brands. This is the result of laypeople blindly investing without understanding this,” Zhou Chengjian used an analogy. He explained that whether it was Nanjing East Road, Tmall, or Suning, they were all social channels. “Business districts need groups, and that’s what a business district is. But positioning Banggou and Youfan as Metersbonwe’s own channels is like opening a Metersbonwe store in the Metersbonwe factory area. This logic itself is wrong and impossible to succeed, but I didn’t understand it at the time.”</p><p>He said that the lesson he learned from this incident was that \"decisions made from outside the industry must be done in an outside way, and we cannot follow the methods of the industry, otherwise we will definitely fail.\"</p><p><b>05</b></p><p><b>regression</b></p><p>After nearly a decade of ups and downs, Zhou Chengjian decided to return to his role as a \"tailor\".</p><p>“There’s no turning back. The company is doing so poorly. Unless I give up, I have to think about doing it well again.” Since 2018, Zhou Chengjian has begun to gradually return, and the first thing he did after returning was to “correct his mistakes.”</p><p>He has reorganized Metersbonwe's current channels and supply chain and is working to make up for the \"wrong decision\" he made in the past.</p><p>“Our key problem now is the misalignment of resources. I asked the team to rethink how to make and sell clothes. For example, how to sell clothes? How to match current resources to the corresponding channels.”</p><p>Metersbonwe then conducted a full-channel classification analysis of online and offline channels.</p><p>\"Whether it's traditional online platforms like JD.com and Tmall, newly emerging social e-commerce platforms, or offline business districts and shopping malls, we hope to analyze and plan for these omnichannels to find the answers to who we want to sell to and how we want to sell. After clarifying these questions, we can then make product planning and supply chain support based on this precise market.\"</p><p>In 2015, in order to expand its reach, Metersbonwe launched \"five major styles\": casual NEWear, trendy HYSTYL, urban light business Nōvachic, street trendy MTEE, and forest-style ASELF. Metersbonwe hopes that these diverse styles can satisfy more consumers.</p><p>“This strategy is correct, but from a single perspective, they cannot meet market demand individually. We need to delve into these styles to gradually clarify their consumer groups and consumption regions. For example, trend lines sell very well in Northeast China, but we allocate resources evenly across the country, which is ‘resource misalignment’.”</p><p>Currently, Zhou Chengjian is precisely matching five styles with channels and regional markets. \"Based on market demand and combined with the company's capabilities, I will first focus on a certain style, then gradually implement it and break through it one by one.\"</p><p>In addition to precise channel matching, supply chain management has also become a key focus for Metersbonwe's self-rescue efforts.</p><p>They withdrew the \"technology research and development\" process that they had blindly outsourced, reorganized the supply chain, and achieved a \"closed-loop path from trends to clothing.\"</p><p>“We now have our own design team and sample garment factory. The design and production of sample garments are completed internally, which greatly improves efficiency and increases the controllability of clothing design and quality. We have just completed the research and development of ME&CITY in the fall of 2021, and the company is very satisfied with the products for this season.”</p><p>In terms of channels, Zhou Chengjian finally changed the standards he had previously adhered to, reorganized the channel standards, and readjusted them from \"location\" to area.</p><p>\"In addition, we have also streamlined the precise matching of products through different channels, making the entire operation more refined, standardized, and replicable, which has given franchisees confidence.\"</p><p>\"Through the review in the second half of last year, we found that many partners who returned to franchise and cooperate several years ago have reached the same scale as last year in the first quarter of this year (2021). In the first quarter, we have determined that the area of stores to be developed is already greater than the area to be developed in last year.\"</p><p>“I hope that Metersbonwe can rediscover its core competitiveness and get the whole company back to the business of making and selling clothes. Now I think we have a very clear strategy and path, but we have not yet fully achieved this core advantage. We are just embarking on the journey of returning to the business.”</p><p>From venturing into Wenzhou alone as a teenager, to becoming the richest man in the clothing industry after going public, and now returning to his original intention as a tailor, Zhou Chengjian has indeed taken an \"unusual path\".</p><p>“It is very difficult for people to understand themselves, and it is even more difficult to manage themselves. Through repeated trials and tribulations, we will always grow and mature, and we will always understand ourselves better than before. I have tried and experienced it. If I still have the chance to come back, that would be a blessing in itself... Today, if people can still label me as a ‘tailor,’ I would be satisfied.” Zhou Chengjian said, holding a teacup against the huge glass window.</p>","source":"lsy1621046853013","collect":0,"html":"<!DOCTYPE html>\n<html>\n<head>\n<meta http-equiv=\"Content-Type\" content=\"text/html; charset=utf-8\" />\n<meta name=\"viewport\" content=\"width=device-width,initial-scale=1.0,minimum-scale=1.0,maximum-scale=1.0,user-scalable=no\"/>\n<meta name=\"format-detection\" content=\"telephone=no,email=no,address=no\" />\n<title>Metersbonwe Chairman Zhou Chengjian: I once forgot I was a \"tailor\"</title>\n<style type=\"text/css\">\na,abbr,acronym,address,applet,article,aside,audio,b,big,blockquote,body,canvas,caption,center,cite,code,dd,del,details,dfn,div,dl,dt,\nem,embed,fieldset,figcaption,figure,footer,form,h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6,header,hgroup,html,i,iframe,img,ins,kbd,label,legend,li,mark,menu,nav,\nobject,ol,output,p,pre,q,ruby,s,samp,section,small,span,strike,strong,sub,summary,sup,table,tbody,td,tfoot,th,thead,time,tr,tt,u,ul,var,video{ font:inherit;margin:0;padding:0;vertical-align:baseline;border:0 }\nbody{ font-size:16px; line-height:1.5; color:#999; background:transparent; }\n.wrapper{ overflow:hidden;word-break:break-all;padding:10px; }\nh1,h2{ font-weight:normal; line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:.6em; }\nh3,h4,h5,h6{ line-height:1.35; margin-bottom:1em; }\nh1{ font-size:24px; }\nh2{ font-size:20px; }\nh3{ font-size:18px; }\nh4{ font-size:16px; }\nh5{ font-size:14px; }\nh6{ font-size:12px; }\np,ul,ol,blockquote,dl,table{ margin:1.2em 0; }\nul,ol{ margin-left:2em; }\nul{ list-style:disc; }\nol{ list-style:decimal; }\nli,li p{ margin:10px 0;}\nimg{ max-width:100%;display:block;margin:0 auto 1em; }\nblockquote{ color:#B5B2B1; border-left:3px solid #aaa; padding:1em; }\nstrong,b{font-weight:bold;}\nem,i{font-style:italic;}\ntable{ width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;border-spacing:1px;margin:1em 0;font-size:.9em; }\nth,td{ padding:5px;text-align:left;border:1px solid #aaa; }\nth{ font-weight:bold;background:#5d5d5d; }\n.symbol-link{font-weight:bold;}\n/* header{ border-bottom:1px solid #494756; } */\n.title{ margin:0 0 8px;line-height:1.3;color:#ddd; }\n.meta {color:#5e5c6d;font-size:13px;margin:0 0 .5em; }\na{text-decoration:none; color:#2a4b87;}\n.meta .head { display: inline-block; overflow: hidden}\n.head .h-thumb { width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%; float: left;}\n.head .h-content { margin: 0; padding: 0 0 0 9px; float: left;}\n.head .h-name {font-size: 13px; color: #eee; margin: 0;}\n.head .h-time {font-size: 12.5px; color: #7E829C; margin: 0;}\n.small {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.9); -webkit-transform: scale(0.9); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.smaller {font-size: 12.5px; display: inline-block; transform: scale(0.8); -webkit-transform: scale(0.8); transform-origin: left; -webkit-transform-origin: left;}\n.bt-text {font-size: 12px;margin: 1.5em 0 0 0}\n.bt-text p {margin: 0}\n</style>\n</head>\n<body>\n<div class=\"wrapper\">\n<header>\n<h2 class=\"title\">\nMetersbonwe Chairman Zhou Chengjian: I once forgot I was a \"tailor\"\n</h2>\n<h4 class=\"meta\">\n<p class=\"head\">\n<strong class=\"h-name small\">商业江湖</strong><span class=\"h-time small\">2021-05-15 10:50</span>\n</p>\n</h4>\n</header>\n<article>\n<p>In 2008, Metersbonwe was listed on the Shenzhen Stock Exchange. At the listing ceremony, Zhou Chengjian, founder of Metersbonwe, presented the Shenzhen Stock Exchange with a small gold-plated sewing machine. He said, \"I started as a tailor in a village. Now I am fortunate to become a tailor in China. I hope to become a tailor in the world in the future.\"</p><p>Since then, \"Chinese tailor\" has become Zhou Chengjian's most important label, and he has repeated this phrase on many occasions.</p><p>But 13 years later, Zhou Chengjian began to reflect on his \"inconsistency between words and deeds\".</p><p>On January 28, 2021, sitting in the office of Metersbonwe's headquarters in Kangqiao, Shanghai, Zhou Chengjian told Business World, \"On the surface, I have always emphasized that I am a 'Chinese tailor,' but in reality, in the past few years, I have left the apparel industry and rarely understand the changes in the industry. It is this 'leaving the industry' behavior that has led Metersbonwe to its current predicament.\"</p><p>Ten years ago, Metersbonwe had impressive financial reports.</p><p>In 2008, Metersbonwe's net profit reached 588 million yuan, and they peaked in 2011, when Metersbonwe opened more than 5,000 chain stores nationwide, achieving revenue of 9.945 billion yuan and net profit of 1.206 billion yuan.</p><p>“Back then, we were the clothing company with the strongest supply chain capabilities in China. Our quarter-end sold-out rate could reach 95-97%, and we could even replenish orders in the middle of the quarter by about 45%. Now, however, our quarter-end sold-out rate is only 50-60%,” Zhou Chengjian said.</p><p>Looking back, 2008 was the turning point in Zhou Chengjian's \"tailoring career.\" Before that, he \"focused all his energy on the fashion industry, often traveling to Milan and Paris to exchange clothing designs with local designers.\" However, after going public, he \"went from a farmer to the owner of a listed company, and had more opportunities to work in different circles. He was overconfident and went astray.\"</p><p>“Some people never forget themselves no matter how they get into social circles, but I forgot my last name as I got into it.”</p><p>“I use ‘tailor’ as a slogan every day, but in essence I forget about tailors. My behavior is not based on tailors, which has caused today’s trouble. Now I emphasize ‘awakening and returning’ in the company in the hope of starting with myself, awakening my obsession with ‘making clothes’ and returning to the clothing industry.”</p><p>From starting a business in a hurry, to losing himself, and then to waking up and returning, Zhou Chengjian reviewed his entrepreneurial history to Business Jianghu in an interview lasting more than an hour, and said that he now knows his last name.</p><p>\"I have the surname 'Tailor',\" he said.</p><p><b>01</b></p><p><b>The Great Leap Forward of \"Half-Sleeve\"</b></p><p>Initially, Zhou Chengjian was indeed a tailor.</p><p>When he was 14 years old, he learned to make clothes with his relatives. Later, he came to Wenzhou to work as a garment manufacturer, mainly supplying the Miaoguosi wholesaler.</p><p>“When doing OEM manufacturing, we usually take orders in the afternoon and deliver the goods at noon the next day. The longest time is no more than 72 hours because customers don’t wait that long,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he was extremely busy, taking jobs during the day and cutting at night. When he was tired, he would put a blanket on the cutting board and sleep.</p><p>“Back then, there was a popular joke in our circle: ‘Be a boss by day and sleep on the floor at night,’” he said.</p><p>In his busy schedule, Zhou Chengjian made a mistake. One day while cutting, he drew the wrong size and cut a stack of fabric by more than ten centimeters, resulting in the sleeves of the suits being shorter. He was then \"severely criticized\" by the client, who demanded that he pay over 100,000 yuan in compensation.</p><p>Left with no other option, Zhou Chengjian went to the market to buy another type of fabric to patch together the sleeves. To cover up the mistake, he changed the straight sleeves of his suit to color-matched jacket sleeves and then asked the customer to \"try selling it. If you can sell it, sell it. If you can't sell it, I'll pay for any losses myself.\"</p><p>Unexpectedly, these patchwork suits were very popular in the market and quickly sold out, with many people even coming to \"chase orders\".</p><p>Thus, \"patchwork casual suits\" emerged, becoming a new clothing category.</p><p>“I used to think I was just making clothes for others, but after this incident, I realized that I could also create clothes. After that, I started to put more effort into making clothes. Other companies would buy a piece of clothing and imitate it by cutting it, while I would change some details, such as changing the sleeves or pockets, so that the clothes would look different and my business would be better than others’,” Zhou Chengjian said. “The ‘half-sleeve incident’ was a breakthrough in my career.”</p><p>Through this success, Zhou Chengjian also made a name for himself. He then opened his own clothing stall in Miaoguo Temple, forming a \"front store, back factory\" business model, taking orders during the day and returning to the factory for cutting and processing at night. Under this model, he did all the procurement, design, sewing, and sales himself. He subsequently opened a garment factory in Wenzhou with more than 500 employees, becoming one of the most experienced practitioners in the industry.</p><p>Years later, Zhou Chengjian, who was already the chairman of Metersbonwe, visited partner companies. When factory owners boasted to him about their company's \"strong production capacity,\" Zhou Chengjian would smile and say, \"At least 30% of the employees in your workshop are novices. I can tell their level of proficiency just by listening to the sound of them stepping on the sewing machine.\"</p><p>At that time, he was indeed a genuine \"Wenzhou tailor\".</p><p><b>02</b></p><p><b>Shell companies and borrowed nets for fishing</b></p><p>In April 1995, Zhou Chengjian opened the first Metersbonwe store in Wenzhou. In order to attract customers, he paved the entire Wuma Street in Wenzhou with a red carpet, leading directly to the Metersbonwe store.</p><p>The name Metersbonwe is said to originate from ancient Chinese, meaning \"beautiful and unique here, showcasing the prestige of our country\".</p><p>“I left the wholesale market not because I was already doing very well there, but because I felt that continuing like this was not a long-term solution,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, the Wenzhou clothing market was “unregulated,” with no fixed retail price for clothing and everyone haggling over prices. He felt that this model needed to be changed.</p><p>\"I wanted to be a brand with clearly marked prices and no haggling.\" That's how Metersbonwe was born.</p><p>However, Metersbonwe's innovation in apparel retail doesn't stop there. Due to insufficient funds in the early stages, Zhou Chengjian figured out a \"cost-effective but fast\" development model. He outsourced the most important part of traditional apparel companies—manufacturing and production—while only being responsible for design and brand marketing. At the same time, he attracted franchisees on a large scale. This not only reduced the burden on the company, but also quickly seized the market.</p><p>“I wanted to make a full range of clothing, but my own factory only made woven jackets at the time, and the factory was too busy. So I could only find a full-category supply chain in society to support it. At the same time, I didn’t want to spend so much money on opening a store, so I invited customers who used to do wholesale in wholesale markets to become my franchisees,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he often went to Guangdong to find cooperative suppliers to broaden his product categories.</p><p>\"Simply put, I've essentially outsourced the production workshop and stores. Apart from these two aspects, everything else is our own, such as branding, plate making, and design,\" Zhou Chengjian said. He added that this model sparked a lot of skepticism in its early stages.</p><p>“We either produced it ourselves, or we produced it ourselves and then opened our own specialty stores to sell it. At that time, this model was called the real economy. So when Metersbonwe appeared, some people questioned whether I was ‘not doing my job properly’.”</p><p>Zhou Chengjian recalled that around 1996, about a year after Metersbonwe's establishment, a colleague from the wholesale market accompanied the \"China Garment Association\" to Metersbonwe for research. After the visit, he said to Zhou Chengjian, \"If your company is still alive in a year, I will cut off your head and give it to you.\"</p><p>There is no doubt that every innovation is mixed with huge doubts.</p><p>Looking back today, Metersbonwe established an excellent business model at the time—like major apparel brands such as Nike and Adidas, they used an asset-light model to quickly mobilize social forces, thereby unlocking a huge market share.</p><p>“I didn’t do it after I understood the theory, but after I did it, I verified the correctness of the model through these theories. Looking back, I wasn’t the first in the world to adopt this model. Many European and American brands are global OEMs, and this model has already existed, but I didn’t know about it at the time,” Zhou Chengjian said. He added that he was not an innovator in the world, but in Zhejiang at the time, he was the “first person.”</p><p>Around 1998, Zhang Dejiang, then Secretary of the Zhejiang Provincial Party Committee, visited Wenzhou for research. After listening to Zhou Chengjian's speech, Secretary Zhang said, \"Xiao Zhou, your model is good. You're using a chicken to lay eggs and a net to catch fish.\"</p><p>Subsequently, the Party Secretary wrote a long passage in Metersbonwe's materials, hoping that the national correspondent stations stationed in Zhejiang Province would vigorously promote it and encourage everyone to study Metersbonwe and learn from its model.</p><p>Overnight, Zhou Chengjian became a representative of \"borrowing nets to fish\".</p><p>After a brief period of controversy, the \"asset-light\" model quickly showed its advantages.</p><p>From its founding in 1995 to its IPO in 2008, Metersbonwe created a legend of rapid rise in just 13 years.</p><p>“When we went public, Metersbonwe had retail sales of over 5 billion yuan and nearly a thousand stores, surpassing many companies that were established earlier than us. In terms of scale, influence, professional capabilities and other data, we were number one in the industry. In fact, the second and third places combined may only be two-thirds of ours.”</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that even today, he still feels that this model has no obvious flaws, and \"Metersbonwe's predicament lies in its failure to adhere to the key points of this model, such as product development and supply chain management.\" Behind this is the consequence of his own \"breaking away from the circle.\"</p><p><b>03</b></p><p><b>The \"changes and constants\" after leaving the industry</b></p><p>One bad consequence of \"leaving the circle\" is an increase in \"inventory\".</p><p>“Garment resources should be in the workshop, on the production line, not in the warehouse. High inventory is an abnormal phenomenon. On the one hand, it occupies warehouse space, increases circulation costs, financial costs, and trend lag costs, etc.,” Zhou Chengjian said. He added that the inventory backlog is closely related to his initial behavior of “leaving the industry.”</p><p>Specifically, over the past decade, Metersbonwe has made some mistakes in supply chain management and channel expansion.</p><p>\"Why were we able to achieve a 97% quarter-end sold-out rate before 2008? This is actually closely related to the underlying product development, technology implementation, and product supply chain capabilities,\" said Zhou Chengjian. He added that two mistakes in the supply chain indirectly led to the decrease in the sold-out rate.</p><p>In its early days, Metersbonwe outsourced its \"workshops and stores,\" while keeping its brand and design capabilities in its own hands. They had their own design and R&D teams that could develop the most fashionable clothing according to market needs. However, after going public, a vice president suggested to Zhou Chengjian to \"socialize the design and technology processes.\"</p><p>Simply put, it means outsourcing both ends of the design process.</p><p>“The designer draws a sketch, then sends it to the production factory for trial production. It takes about half a month to a month to make the clothes, and then we review them to see if they are correct,” Zhou Chengjian said. After the company went public, he moved into other circles and didn’t pay much attention to the clothing industry, which led him to make some wrong judgments.</p><p>\"The vice president at the time suggested that this kind of outsourcing could save tens of millions of yuan in costs. After listening to it, I thought it made sense, so I tacitly approved the change.\"</p><p>Another change in the supply chain also occurred at this time.</p><p>\"Another vice president suggested that all fabric and accessory procurement be socialized.\" Prior to this, Metersbonwe's supply chain was relatively closed, and they would choose some long-term cooperative suppliers for procurement. After socialization, they would become raw material procurement for the whole society.</p><p>“After studying at CEIBS, that vice president wrote a related academic paper. After finishing his studies, he came to me and talked about socializing the supply chain, saying that this could save a lot of costs,” Zhou Chengjian said. Although these measures were all suggestions made by the vice president, the problem still lay with him. \"Because I am the authorizer, the manager, and the supporter.\"</p><p>These measures did help Metersbonwe save costs in the short term, but on the other hand, they also meant that Metersbonwe lost its ability to respond quickly in the supply chain and its ability to control product quality.</p><p>“After design outsourcing, there was a significant increase in time costs. The designers’ design drafts and the manufacturers’ finished products were mailed and modified back and forth. Often, a lot of time was spent on a season’s clothes before they could achieve the ideal design and quality,” Zhou Chengjian said. At that time, he was “out of the industry” and did not care about these details, which led to them “going back and forth” and reduced design and production efficiency.</p><p>However, in terms of distribution channels, Metersbonwe has stuck to some outdated standards.</p><p>“At the time, the channel manager repeatedly suggested that I make changes to my retail operations and channel planning, but I did not listen to his suggestions,” Zhou Chengjian said. The manager repeatedly emphasized to him that adjustments should be made to Metersbonwe and ME&CITY stores. For example, ME&CITY should not open large stores, but should open stores of appropriate size in shopping mall districts. At the same time, Metersbonwe stores should not be based on the standard of the giant store on Nanjing Road in Shanghai, but should find other stores to copy the standard.</p><p>He did not adopt any of these suggestions.</p><p>\"Looking back, the biggest change in the market over the past decade has been the change in channels and retail methods. ME&CITY is positioned to serve the new middle class, targeting urban white-collar workers. Over the past decade, the likelihood of urban white-collar workers going to traditional commercial streets has decreased, and this group prefers to shop in shopping malls. Therefore, ME&CITY should set up stores in shopping malls such as MixC, Longfor World, and Kerry Centre, rather than continuing to stay on Huaihai Road or Nanjing Road.\" Correspondingly, Metersbonwe can set up stores in traditional business districts, but the flagship store on Nanjing East Road should not be used as the standard. This store is too large and can be used as a flagship store, but it cannot be promoted nationwide. Zhou Chengjian said that during his time away from the industry, he didn't understand the market conditions enough, which led to him \"not listening to what he should have heard, and listening to what he shouldn't have heard.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian reflected on the reasons for his two wrong decisions: \"Product development and supply chain belong to back-end management. Once the back-end staff is not involved, they will forget what is right and what is wrong. So when I received these suggestions, I felt that I could not judge right and wrong, so I chose to listen to their suggestions. But retail and channels belong to the front-end staff. I see a lot and have a lot of contact with the front-end staff on a daily basis. Even after leaving the industry, I still feel that I am in this situation, so I fall into the experience trap, insist on my own decisions, and am unwilling to accept suggestions.\"</p><p>Zhou Chengjian admitted that after leaving the industry, he \"detached himself from industry analysis and just listened to advice from an emotional perspective.\" This ultimately led Metersbonwe to take more detours.</p><p><b>04</b></p><p><b>Reflections on the \"Banggou\" and \"Youfanr\" apps</b></p><p>Of course, \"leaving the circle\" is not all a bad thing. From another perspective, Zhou Chengjian, who stands in a higher circle, also saw greater opportunities. Benefiting from the exchange of information \"outside the circle\", he made two major attempts in the Internet industry in 2010 and 2014.</p><p>In 2010, at Metersbonwe's peak, Zhou Chengjian launched Metersbonwe's own e-commerce platform, \"Banggo.com\". Through this e-commerce platform, consumers can scan QR codes to make purchases in physical stores, as well as enjoy multiple functions such as online shopping and offline returns and exchanges.</p><p>In its first year online, Banggo.com achieved 300 million yuan in transactions for the Metersbonwe brand, which is a very good figure. However, it is regrettable that Banggo.com only lasted about a year before ending in disappointment.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian's other, more significant attempt came four years later. In 2014, Metersbonwe acquired the title sponsorship of \"Qipa Talk\" for 50 million yuan; In April of the following year, the \"Youfan\" APP was launched; Subsequently, the \"Youfan\" APP won the title sponsorship for the second and third seasons of \"Qipa Talk\".</p><p>Youfan is an experience platform that focuses on \"trendy and fashionable matching\". Users can communicate with professional stylists at close range through the APP, choose a style that suits them from a large number of personalized brands, get customized and exclusive suggestions, and place orders in real time to share and interact.</p><p>From today's perspective, Youfan is a \"social e-commerce\" APP that has all the attributes of social e-commerce. Benefiting from the traffic generation of Qipa Talk, Youfan ushered in a \"good start\" - it attracted 500,000 users on the first night of its launch, who uploaded 100,000 selfies.</p><p>However, the APP failed to go far in the market, and in August 2017, the \"Youfan\" APP announced its discontinuation.</p><p>Zhou Chengjian said that both Banggou and Youfan seized the window of opportunity, as can be seen from the rise of Vipshop and Xiaohongshu at the same time. However, neither Banggou nor Youfan went far, and the most crucial reason is that \"they simply didn't understand it.\"</p><p>“Banggou and Youfan were both positioned as our own channels, failing to expand into platform attributes. We always thought about making them new channels for Metersbonwe, rather than making them a mass-market platform that could encompass more brands. This is the result of laypeople blindly investing without understanding this,” Zhou Chengjian used an analogy. He explained that whether it was Nanjing East Road, Tmall, or Suning, they were all social channels. “Business districts need groups, and that’s what a business district is. But positioning Banggou and Youfan as Metersbonwe’s own channels is like opening a Metersbonwe store in the Metersbonwe factory area. This logic itself is wrong and impossible to succeed, but I didn’t understand it at the time.”</p><p>He said that the lesson he learned from this incident was that \"decisions made from outside the industry must be done in an outside way, and we cannot follow the methods of the industry, otherwise we will definitely fail.\"</p><p><b>05</b></p><p><b>regression</b></p><p>After nearly a decade of ups and downs, Zhou Chengjian decided to return to his role as a \"tailor\".</p><p>“There’s no turning back. The company is doing so poorly. Unless I give up, I have to think about doing it well again.” Since 2018, Zhou Chengjian has begun to gradually return, and the first thing he did after returning was to “correct his mistakes.”</p><p>He has reorganized Metersbonwe's current channels and supply chain and is working to make up for the \"wrong decision\" he made in the past.</p><p>“Our key problem now is the misalignment of resources. I asked the team to rethink how to make and sell clothes. For example, how to sell clothes? How to match current resources to the corresponding channels.”</p><p>Metersbonwe then conducted a full-channel classification analysis of online and offline channels.</p><p>\"Whether it's traditional online platforms like JD.com and Tmall, newly emerging social e-commerce platforms, or offline business districts and shopping malls, we hope to analyze and plan for these omnichannels to find the answers to who we want to sell to and how we want to sell. After clarifying these questions, we can then make product planning and supply chain support based on this precise market.\"</p><p>In 2015, in order to expand its reach, Metersbonwe launched \"five major styles\": casual NEWear, trendy HYSTYL, urban light business Nōvachic, street trendy MTEE, and forest-style ASELF. Metersbonwe hopes that these diverse styles can satisfy more consumers.</p><p>“This strategy is correct, but from a single perspective, they cannot meet market demand individually. We need to delve into these styles to gradually clarify their consumer groups and consumption regions. For example, trend lines sell very well in Northeast China, but we allocate resources evenly across the country, which is ‘resource misalignment’.”</p><p>Currently, Zhou Chengjian is precisely matching five styles with channels and regional markets. \"Based on market demand and combined with the company's capabilities, I will first focus on a certain style, then gradually implement it and break through it one by one.\"</p><p>In addition to precise channel matching, supply chain management has also become a key focus for Metersbonwe's self-rescue efforts.</p><p>They withdrew the \"technology research and development\" process that they had blindly outsourced, reorganized the supply chain, and achieved a \"closed-loop path from trends to clothing.\"</p><p>“We now have our own design team and sample garment factory. The design and production of sample garments are completed internally, which greatly improves efficiency and increases the controllability of clothing design and quality. We have just completed the research and development of ME&CITY in the fall of 2021, and the company is very satisfied with the products for this season.”</p><p>In terms of channels, Zhou Chengjian finally changed the standards he had previously adhered to, reorganized the channel standards, and readjusted them from \"location\" to area.</p><p>\"In addition, we have also streamlined the precise matching of products through different channels, making the entire operation more refined, standardized, and replicable, which has given franchisees confidence.\"</p><p>\"Through the review in the second half of last year, we found that many partners who returned to franchise and cooperate several years ago have reached the same scale as last year in the first quarter of this year (2021). In the first quarter, we have determined that the area of stores to be developed is already greater than the area to be developed in last year.\"</p><p>“I hope that Metersbonwe can rediscover its core competitiveness and get the whole company back to the business of making and selling clothes. Now I think we have a very clear strategy and path, but we have not yet fully achieved this core advantage. We are just embarking on the journey of returning to the business.”</p><p>From venturing into Wenzhou alone as a teenager, to becoming the richest man in the clothing industry after going public, and now returning to his original intention as a tailor, Zhou Chengjian has indeed taken an \"unusual path\".</p><p>“It is very difficult for people to understand themselves, and it is even more difficult to manage themselves. Through repeated trials and tribulations, we will always grow and mature, and we will always understand ourselves better than before. I have tried and experienced it. If I still have the chance to come back, that would be a blessing in itself... Today, if people can still label me as a ‘tailor,’ I would be satisfied.” Zhou Chengjian said, holding a teacup against the huge glass window.</p>\n<div class=\"bt-text\">\n\n\n<p> source：<a href=\"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Xr9zecdJ2WDX3N_tPWSpZA\">商业江湖</a></p>\n\n\n</div>\n</article>\n</div>\n</body>\n</html>\n","type":0,"thumbnail":"https://static.tigerbbs.com/d4130e6389dd597b1fd98bec5929e58b","relate_stocks":{"002269":"美邦服饰"},"source_url":"https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/Xr9zecdJ2WDX3N_tPWSpZA","is_english":false,"share_image_url":"https://static.laohu8.com/e9f99090a1c2ed51c021029395664489","article_id":"1144988792","content_text":"2008年美特斯邦威在深交所挂牌上市，在上市仪式上，美邦创始人周成建向深交所赠送了一台镀金小缝纫机，他说：“我最早是一个村庄的裁缝，现在有幸成为中国的裁缝，希望以后还能成为全球的裁缝。”\n此后，“中国裁缝”成为周成建最重要的标签，他在多个场合重复这个说法。\n但13年后，周成建开始反思自己的“言行不一”。\n2021年1月28日，坐在上海康桥美邦总部办公室里，周成建对《商业江湖》说，“表面上我一直强调自己做‘中国裁缝’，但实际上，在过去的若干年里我一度脱离服装圈，很少了解行业的变化，正是这种‘脱圈’行为让美邦出现今天的困局。”\n十年前，美邦有着漂亮的财报数据。\n2008年，美特斯邦威的净利润已经达到5.88亿元，而他们在2011年达到顶峰，当年美邦在全国开设了5000多家连锁店，实现营收99.45亿元、净利12.06亿元。\n“那时，我们是国内供应链能力最强的服装公司，我们季末售罄率可以达到95-97%，甚至季中补单还可以做到45%左右，而现在我们的季末售罄率只有50-60%。”周成建说。\n回头看，2008年是周成建“裁缝生涯”的拐点，此前他“所有的精力都在服装这个圈子，经常跑到米兰、巴黎和当地设计师交流服装设计”，而上市后，他“从一个农民变成上市公司老板，混不同圈子机会也多了，整个人自信过头，跑偏了。”\n“有些人混圈子不管怎么混都不会忘记自己，而我混着混着把自己姓什么忘了。”\n“我天天把‘裁缝’当做口号，但本质上又忘了裁缝，行为不基于裁缝就造成了今天的麻烦，而现在我在公司里强调‘唤醒和回归’就是希望从我做起，唤醒对‘做衣服’的执念，回归服装圈。”\n从草莽创业，到迷失自我，再到唤醒回归，周成建在一个多小时的采访中向《商业江湖》回顾了自己的创业史，并表示现在他知道自己姓什么了。\n“我是姓‘裁缝’的人。”他说。\n01\n“半截袖”的大跃进\n最初，周成建确实是一个裁缝。\n他14岁时随着亲戚学做衣服，后来到温州做服装代加工，主要为妙果寺批发商供货。\n“做代加工一般都是下午接单，第二天中午交货，最长也不会超过72小时，因为客人不会等这么久。”周成建说，那时他忙的焦头烂额，白天接活晚上裁剪，困了就在剪板上放上被子睡觉。\n“那时候我们圈里流行一句调侃‘白天当老板，晚上睡地板。’”他说。\n忙中出错，一天在裁剪时，周成建画错了尺寸，将一沓布料多裁了十几厘米，导致这批西装的袖子短了一截。随后他“被客户骂的狗血淋头”，对方让他赔偿十几万。\n无奈之下周成建去市场上买了另一种布料来拼接衣袖，为了掩盖失误，他将西装的直袖改成了拼色的夹克袖，然后请客户“试着卖一下，能卖就卖，卖不了损失多少我自己赔付。”\n出乎意料的是这种拼接西服受到市场的追捧，很快就抢购一空，甚至很多人前来“追单”。\n就这样“拼接版的休闲西服”横空出世，成为一个新的服装品类。\n“我以前认为自己只是帮人家做衣服，但经过这个事情之后我意识到我还可以创造衣服，此后我开始在做衣服上花心思，别家是买过来一件衣服仿照着裁剪，而我会将衣服改一些细节，比如改个袖子或者口袋，这样衣服就显得与众不同，生意也就比别人的好一些。”周成建说，“半截袖事件”是自己事业上的一个突破点。\n经此一役，周成建也闯出了名声，随后他在妙果寺开设了自己的服装摊位，形成了“前店后厂”的经营模式，白天接单晚上回厂里裁剪加工。这种模式下，采购、设计、缝制、销售等环节，全部自己做，随后他在温州开办了500多人的制衣工厂，成为这个行业最具经验的从业者。\n数年后，已经是美特斯邦威董事长的周成建去合作伙伴公司参观，在那些工厂老板跟他夸口自己公司“生产能力多强”的时候，周成建会笑着说，“你们车间至少有三成员工是新手，我听他们踩缝纫机的声音就能知道他们的熟练程度。”\n那时候的他确实是一个地道的“温州裁缝”。\n02\n皮包公司和借网捕鱼\n1995年4月，周成建在温州开设了第一家美特斯邦威专卖店，为了吸引顾客，他将温州五马街全部铺上了红地毯，直通美邦门店。\n美特斯邦威的名字据说源自古风中文，意指“美丽特别斯于此，扬我国邦之威”。\n“我离开批发市场并非是在批发市场已经做的很好，而是我觉得这样下去不是长久之计。”周成建说当时温州服装市场“不规范”，服装都没有固定的零售价格，所有人都在讨价还价，他觉得这种模式需要改一改。\n“我想要做一个明码标价，不讨价还价的品牌。”于是美特斯邦威诞生了。\n不过美邦对于服装零售的创新不止于此，因为前期资金不足，周成建琢磨出一套“省钱但快速的”发展模式——他将传统服装企业最重的部分——制造、生产外包，自身只负责设计和品牌营销，同时大规模的招徕加盟商，这样一方面减轻了企业负担，同时也快速的抢占了市场。\n“我要做全品类的服装，但我自己的工厂当时只做梭织夹克，工厂也忙不过来，所以我只能找社会上的全品类供应链来支撑，同时开店方面我也不想花那么多钱，于是把曾经在批发市场做批发的客户邀请过来成为我的加盟商。”周成建说，那时候他经常去广东找合作供应商，去拓宽品类。\n“简单的说我相当于把生产车间和门店外包了，而这两个环节之外，其他东西都是我们自己的，比如品牌、制版、设计等环节自己做。”周成建说，这个模式在创立初期引发了诸多质疑。\n“要么自己生产，要么自己生产再自己开专卖店销售，那时候这种模式才叫实体经济，所以美邦一出现就有人质疑我‘不务正业’。”\n周成建回忆说，1996年前后，也就是美邦成立一年左右，批发市场的一个同行随同“中国服饰协会”到美邦做调研，参观完后对周成建说，“一年之后你的公司如果还活着，我把头割下来送给你。”\n毫无疑问，每一次创新都夹杂着巨大的质疑。\n站在今天回头看，当时的美邦创立了一个非常优秀的商业模式——像Nike、阿迪等大型服饰品牌一样，他们用了一种轻资产模式快速发动社会力量，继而撬动了一个巨大的市场蛋糕。\n“我不是想明白了理论之后再去做的，而是做完了之后通过这些理论验证了这个模式的正确性，回头看我在全世界并不是最早采用这个模式的，欧美很多品牌都是全球代工，这种模式早已存在，只是当时的我并不知道。”周成建说，放到全世界来看，他不是创新者，但在当时的浙江，他是“第一人”。\n1998年前后，时任浙江省委书记的张德江到温州调研，在听取了周成建的发言后，张书记说，“小周，你这个模式好，你这是借鸡生蛋，借网捕鱼。”\n随后，书记在美邦的材料中批复了很长的一段话，希望全国驻浙江省记者站大力宣传，让大家研究美邦，学习美邦模式。\n一夜之间，周成建成为“借网捕鱼”的代表者。\n在经过短暂的争议后，“轻资产”模式很快就显现出他的优势。\n从1995年创立到2008年上市，在短短的13年里，美邦创造了一个快速崛起的神话。\n“上市时美邦零售额50多亿，有近千家门店，超越了许多比我们成立更早的公司，从规模、影响力、专业能力等各项数据比较我们都是行业第一名，甚至第二、第三名加起来可能只是我们的2/3。”\n周成建说，直到今天，他都觉得这个模式没有明显的缺点，而“美邦的困境在于自己没有坚持这个模式中的关键点，比如产品研发和供应链管理。”而这背后正是他自己“脱离了圈子”造成的后果。\n03\n离圈后的“变和不变”\n“离圈”造成的一个坏结果是“库存”增加。\n“服装资源应该在车间里，在生产线上而不是在仓库里，库存高是不正常的现象，一方面占用仓库面积，增加流通成本、财务成本，还有趋势滞后成本等等。”周成建说，库存积压和自己当初的“离圈”行为息息相关。\n具体而言，在过去的十年间，美邦在供应链管理和渠道拓展上都犯了一些错误。\n“为什么2008年之前我们季末售罄率可以做到97%？这其实和背后的产品研发、技术落地和以及商品供应链能力密不可分。”周成建说，供应链的两个失误决定间接导致了售罄率的降低。\n创立初期，美邦将“车间和门店”都外包，而品牌和设计能力都在自己手中，他们有自己的设计研发团队，可以根据市场需要来研发最时尚的服装，但在上市之后，一个副总向周成建提出建议“将设计和技术环节社会化”。\n简单的说就是将设计环节的两端都外包出去。\n“设计师画一个稿，画好交给生产工厂试生产，做好衣服大概需要半个月、一个月，拿回来我们审核看做的对不对。”周成建说，公司上市后，他混迹于其他圈子，对于服装圈没那么关注，这让他做了一些错误的判断。\n“当时那个副总建议说，这种外包可以节约几千万的成本，我听完之后觉得有道理，于是默许了这种改变。”\n而另一个供应链端的改变也在此时出现。\n“另一个副总建议将面辅料采购全部社会化。”在此之前，美邦的供应链相对封闭，他们会选择一些长期合作的供应商来采购，社会化之后成为面向全社会采购原料。\n“那个副总在中欧商学院读书后，做了一个相关的学术论文，学完之后就来和我说把供应链社会化，说这样可以节约一大批成本。”周成建说，虽然这些举措都是副总做出的建议，但问题还是出在自己身上。“因为我是授权者，管理者和支持者。”\n这些举措确实帮助美邦在短期内节约了成本，但另一方面也意味着美邦失去了供应链的快速响应能力，以及对产品质量的把控能力。\n“设计外包之后，增加了大量的时间成本，设计师的设计稿和生产厂商的成品来回邮寄修改，往往一季衣服花费了大量时间还没有能达到理想的设计感和品质感。”周成建说，那时候自己“离圈”并不关心这些细节，导致他们“来来回回折腾”，降低了设计生产效率。\n而在渠道方面，美邦却固守了一些陈旧的标准。\n“当时渠道负责人反复建议我对零售运营和渠道规划作出改变，但我却没有听从他的建议。”周成建说，该负责人反复向他强调，应该对美特斯邦威和ME&CITY的门店进行调整，比如ME&CITY不应该开大店，而应该去购物中心商圈开适度面积的店，同时美邦门店不应该基于上海南京路巨无霸店做标准，要找另外的店铺做标准复制。\n而这些建议他也都没有采纳。\n“回头看，过去十年市场上最大的变化是渠道变化和零售方式的变化。ME&CITY定位为新中产阶级服务，目标群体是都市白领阶层，而过去十年间都市白领去传统商业街的几率在降低，这部分人群更喜欢去购物中心购物，所以ME&CITY更应该去如万象城、龙湖天地、嘉里中心这样的购物中心设置门店，而不是继续呆在淮海路或者南京路。与此对应，美邦的门店是可以在传统商圈设店，但不应该以南京东路的旗舰店作为标准，这家店面积太大，可以作为旗舰店，但不能全国推广。”周成建说，在“离圈”期间，因为他不够了解市场行情导致“该听的没听，不该听的都听了。”\n周成建反思自己这两个错误决定的原因：“产品研发和供应链是属于后台管理，后台一旦不接触会忘掉什么是对，什么是错，所以在接到这些建议时我觉得自己无法判断对错，进而选择听从他们的建议；但零售和渠道属于前台，前台我日常看的多，接触的多，就算离圈了，还觉得自己在这个情境里，于是陷入经验陷阱，坚持自己的决定，不愿接受建议。”\n周成建承认，自己当时离圈后“脱离了行业内的分析，只是站在一个情绪去听建议。”而这最终导致了美邦走更多的弯路。\n04\n“邦购”和“有范儿”APP的反思\n当然，“离圈”并不全是坏事，从另一个角度看，站在更高圈层的周成建也看到了更大的机会，受益于“圈外”信息的交流，他曾在2010年和2014年在互联网行业进行过两次重大的尝试。\n2010年，也就是美邦最如日中天的时刻，周成建推出了美邦自己的电商平台“邦购网”。借由这个电商平台，消费者可以在实体店内扫码消费，也能实现线上购物和线下退换等多项功能。\n上线第一年，邦购网上美邦单品牌成交量3亿，这是一个很不错的数据，但令人遗憾的是，邦购网仅坚持了一年左右就黯然收场。\n周成建另一个更重大的尝试出现在4年后。2014年，美特斯邦威以5000万拿下《奇葩说》的总冠名；次年4月份，推出“有范”APP；随后，“有范”APP又相继拿下《奇葩说》第二季和第三季的冠名。\n有范是一个主打“潮流时尚搭配的体验平台”，用户可以通过该APP与专业造型师零距离沟通，在大量个性化品牌中挑选适合自己的风格，获得定制化专属建议，并实时下单，进行分享、互动。\n以今天的眼光看，有范就是一款“社交电商”APP，他具有了社交电商的所有属性，受益于奇葩说的引流，有范迎来了“开门红”——上线的第一天晚上就引来了50万用户，这些人上传了10万条自拍内容。\n但这款APP在市场上也未能走远，2017年8月“有范”APP宣布下线。\n周成建说，邦购和有范其实都抓住了窗口期，这从二者同期崛起的唯品会和小红书就可以得到验证，但是邦购和有范又都未能走远，最关键的原因还在于“自己根本就没搞懂”。\n“邦购和有范都是定位于我们自己的渠道，而未能扩大到平台属性。我们总想着让他们成为美邦的新渠道，而没有想过把他们做成一个可以涵盖更多品牌的大众平台。这就是外行人没看懂这个事情就盲目投入的结果。”周成建比喻说，无论南京东路、还是天猫、苏宁其实都是社会渠道，“商圈需要群体，这才是商圈。而自己将邦购和有范都定位成美邦自己的渠道，这就像是在美邦厂区开了一个美特斯邦威的专卖店一样，这个逻辑本身就是错的，不可能成功，但当时我没想明白。”\n他说，这件事给自己的经验是“从圈外作出的决定就要用圈外的方式来做事，不能再沿袭圈内的方法，不然一定失败。”\n05\n回归\n经历了近十年的波折后，周成建决定回归“裁缝”身份。\n“没有退路了，企业做的这么糟糕，除非我放弃，不然我就要想着把他再次做好。”从2018年后，周成建开始逐步回归，而他回归后的第一件事就是“纠错”。\n他重新梳理了美邦当前的渠道和供应链，正努力弥补当初的“错误决定。”\n“我们现在的关键问题是资源错位，我让团队重新思考如何做衣服、卖衣服？比如衣服怎么卖？如何将当前的资源匹配到相应的渠道中去。”\n随后美邦对线上线下做了全域渠道分类分析。\n“无论是线上传统的京东、天猫还是新近崛起的社交电商平台，以及线下的商圈、购物中心等等我们希望针对这些全域渠道做剖析和规划，找到我们想卖给谁？怎么卖的答案，将这些问题梳理清楚后在基于这种精准市场来做产品规划和供应链支持。”\n2015年，为了破圈，美邦推出了“五大风格”即休闲风NEWear、潮流范HYSTYL、都市轻商务Nōvachic、街头潮趣MTEE、森系ASELF，美邦希望这些多元的风格能满足更多的消费者。\n“这个策略是对的，但现在从单一化来看，他们单个无法满足市场需求。我们需要深入到这些风格中逐步的厘清他们消费群体以及消费地域，比如潮流系在东北就卖的很好，但我们在全国平均支配资源，这就是‘资源错位’。”\n当前，周成建正在将五种风格和渠道、区域市场做精准的匹配，“基于市场需求，再结合公司能力，我先聚焦某一个风格，再逐步落实，一个一个攻破。”\n除了渠道做精准匹配之外，供应链的管理也成为美邦自救的重点。\n他们收回了当初盲目外包的“技术研发”环节，重新梳理了供应链，实现了“从趋势到衣服的闭环路径。”\n“我们现在有自己的设计团队和样衣工厂，样衣的设计、生产都在我们内部完成，这极大的提高了效率，而且增加了服饰设计、质量的可控性，我们刚刚做完ME&CITY2021年秋的研发，公司内部对这季产品都非常满意。”\n在渠道方面，周成建终于改变了他此前坚持的标准，重新梳理了渠道标准，从“落位”到面积进行了重新调整。\n“另外也对不同渠道精准匹配产品做梳理，整个营运工作更精细、更标准化，更可复制化，这样加盟商也有了信心。”\n“通过去年下半年的梳理，很多若干年前和合作伙伴重新回来加盟合作，我们今年（2021年）第一季度加盟数字已经达到去年一年的规模，一季度已经确定开发店铺的面积已经大于去年一年的开发面积。”\n“我希望美邦重新找回自己的核心竞争力，让公司上下重新回归去做衣服和卖衣服的事业上，现在我觉得我们在策略上、路径上已经非常清楚了，但还没有完全做到这种核心优势，现在刚踏上回归的路程。”\n从十几岁只身闯温州，到上市暴富成为服装圈首富，再到今天回归“裁缝”初衷，周成建确实走了一条“不寻常的道路”。\n“人了解自己是非常难的，管理自己更难，通过反复的折腾我们总要成长成熟，总会比以前更加了解自己。我折腾过了，也经历过了，如果还有机会重新回归，这本身就是一种福报……今天，如果人们还能给我贴上‘裁缝’的标签，我就满足了。”背靠巨大的玻璃窗，周成建捧着茶杯说。","news_type":1,"symbols_score_info":{"002269":0.9}},"isVote":1,"tweetType":1,"viewCount":4634,"authorTweetTopStatus":1,"verified":2,"comments":[],"imageCount":0,"langContent":"EN","totalScore":0}],"lives":[]}